Controversial Post: Cultural Appropriation

Flashback Summer: Controversial Post - Cultural Appropriation



























About a week ago I ran across a post on the preference of "whiteness" in the fashion industry and even in the vintage community.  (The post is by Jenny of She Loves Dresses and you can find it here.)  In so many ways, I truly agree with Jenny and I'm irked by the pseudo-diversity measures taken by the fashion industry, like including a racially ambiguous model in a sea of white models in a show, or dedicating a special issue of a magazine solely to black women while largely excluding them from normal issues.

However, Jenny also talked about "cultural appropriation," which by the context of her post and comments she seems to mean the taking of tangible pieces of a culture not your own and using them for your own work.  (It has a negative connotation, but it actually isn't always negative.)  This can range from a designer using traditional textiles in a new garment to someone finding a "pretty" religious artifact and putting it on a white girl in a fashion show as an accessory (to use examples from Jenny's post).

Note: "Cultural appropriation" is a hot buzz word right now, but the actual definition from the Yale Journal of Law & the Humanities is, "Cultural appropriation means adopting a cultural product in terms of local meanings and practices. In its broadest sense the term means taking an existing cultural form from one social group and replaying it in another with different meanings or practices: perhaps taking the tune and playing it in a different key or at a different tempo so that it becomes something different, yet still the same."  It can sometimes have the idea of "contextualization" as well.  Keep this in mind when determining what is actually appropriation and what is not!

Flashback Summer: Controversial Post - Cultural Appropriation
1920s Assiout Tunic, a Egyptian craft of metal-on-mesh, popular in the 1920s in the West
I commented about how I like to incorporate other culture's styles into my own looks and create a vintage-cultural fusion.  (Like my vintage-Maldives dress, bergundy Bedouin outfit, and vintage-Comoros dress.)  Jenny replied and included this in her response:

I believe it is very very important to remain respectful of other cultures by not donning any religious or culturally specific styles unless you are part of those cultures yourself.  
I lived in Japan for two years but am ethnically Chinese and Filipino. I never felt comfortable wearing a kimono unless invited by a Japanese family, and I don’t use the term “kawaii” in my speech as I have many Japanese friends who have expressed that kawaii culture has many layers that only Japanese people can understand.

While I agree to a point, I don't know that I would draw such a hard line.  Traditional clothing can be a very special thing, but seeing people of other races or cultures wearing it doesn't necessarily have to indicate an insult.  While living in Sudan, I wore long sleeves, long skirts, tied up my hair, and wore head scarves out of respect for the Muslim-majority culture around me.  I wore the abaya and, only on very special occasions, the tobe (traditional Sudanese clothing for women, especially married women).  It wasn't my attempt to "steal" someone's traditional clothing or to communicate that I knew everything about their culture.  I wanted to express to the Northern Sudanese people around me that I respect their modesty standards and that I am a virtuous woman worth respecting back.  I expressed myself through the lens of their culture.  It often surprised Sudanese people to see such a modestly dressed white person (that's not how white women dress in movies!) and they appreciated the message I was sending about my morals.  The women around me were delighted when I asked to wear a tobe for an event.  A woman offered to lend me one and even taught me how to wrap it properly.  It was honoring to these Northern Sudanese for me to wear their clothing and be sensitive to their cultural norms.  So, basically, what I'm saying is that I wouldn't assume it is wrong to wear traditional clothing, and I wouldn't assume it is right.  I would read the culture because it's different everywhere.


Flashback Summer: Controversial Post - Cultural Appropriation

I do agree with Jenny on the idea that one needs to be especially careful about borrowing religious and ceremonial symbols, but other pieces like silhouettes, fabrics, patterns, etc. seem to me to be appropriate places to find inspiration in other cultures.  (Assuming it's done in a way that does not "caricaturize" another race or culture.)  Almost no one is completely original in their styles, and we borrow and recycle clothing across cultures constantly, much like how Babani borrowed from Middle Eastern traditional looks in the 1910s, or how Ghanaians have put their own twist on the Western three piece suit, the influence of sombreros on cowboy hats, the American adoption of the dirndl skirt from Germany, "Egyptomania" in the 1920s, the prevalent use of the trench coat style in present-day Islamic dress, or the kente fabric ties and cumberbunds for men to create a look that is a fusion of Western and African.

Not to mention, sometimes other cultures do a type of clothing SO WELL that I sincerely love it as much as my own culture's clothing (if not more).  For example, I adore women's pants from India, the one-size-fits-most drawstring kind I bought every time I was in Kenya.  I wear these ALL THE TIME (as many of you see on Instagram), sometimes with the coordinating Indian blouse (called salwar kamees in some places), sometimes not.  They're amazing.  I've also adored the qipao and kimono since I was a little girl, and I would love the opportunity to wear an authentic one someday if it was ever appropriate.

Flashback Summer: Controversial Post - Cultural Appropriation
source
To me, the key to good "cultural appropriation" is sensitivity and motive, but what are your thoughts on cultural appropriation or the wearing of another culture's clothes?  It has been done often in the vintage world (think 1960s cheongsam looks like the ones above or Poiret's harem pants).  Do you think it is a form of inspiration, or should it be avoided at all costs?  What would be "appropriate appropriation" in your eyes?

Remember to keep in mind that cultural appropriation isn't West vs. the Rest of the World.  The West includes a myriad of diverse, distinct cultures as well.

As always, keep things respectful and avoid derogatory statements and personal attacks. This is a conversation to hear lots of different views in order to learn from each other!

27 comments

  1. I think you pretty much hit the nail on the head here, at least as far as my own opinion goes. Different cultures swap and share things all the time, and have done throughout history - the difference between appropriate vs appropriative surely has to have some kind of root in how you treat the item. If you take an item from another culture and treat it in a way which is derogatory or racist (e.g. geisha fancy dress costumes, "Navajo" items from American Apparel or wherever, editorials showing exotification of a culture) then it is of course not acceptable. To my mind, there's a massive difference between that kind of treatment of items from other cultures, and wearing items to fit in with another culture as a sign of respect, or because you're living in that culture - as you did in Sudan. I think this can also cover clothing which is in the style of, or inspired by other cultures as long as it's done in a way that's respectful to the culture and the history of the item.

    I do think it comes with caveats - like you should be careful with religious things as it's probably more likely to cause offence, and obviously it's important to listen to people of other cultures especially if they tell you that they are offended by you wearing an item from their culture etc.

    I also think it's appropriate to use caution around the issue of cultural appropriation as a whole. It's become a somewhat overused buzzword amongst the internet social justice crowd, I think, and tossing the phrase around carelessly can cause more offence such as in these examples: http://tinyurl.com/lwltfv5.

    TLDR; I agree with you; I think it hinges a lot on how you treat the items. We have such a multicultural world now, and I feel like sharing and inspiring each other in a sensitive and respectful manner promotes tolerance, understanding and togetherness between different cultures.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That is a really good point on the buzzword factor of "cultural appropriation." I didn't realize the connotations it's picked up until I checked out Twitter! I've added an extra note to the post to attempt to clarify what it really means and set up the logical framework correctly!

      This is good insight, and I appreciate your willingness to share your opinion. Your closing line really sums it up so well, and I completely agree, "We have such a multicultural world now, and I feel like sharing and inspiring each other in a sensitive and respectful manner promotes tolerance, understanding and togetherness between different cultures."

      Delete
    2. And also the link you included is giving me a good chuckle right now. I like the logic of many of the people. :)

      Delete
  2. I think some of the issues with cultural appropriation are tied in with issues of power. It's not really problematic to adopt the standards of dress in a country that you're visiting - as you said, they were pleased by your respect for their social mores. However, a Somali immigrant here in the US, for example, might not be able to wear their traditional dress without suffering from social stigma. If a white person, or other person who is not Somali, then adopts the dress without having to deal with the stigma, I could see how that would be considered offensive.
    I think one of the best examples of cultural appropriation, and one of the most frequently cited ones, is the war bonnet. Native Americans were practically exterminated from the US, forcibly removed from their lands, and their culture was systematically eradicated. For a very long time they could wear their traditional garments, like war bonnets, but now designers send scantily clad women down runways with them on their heads. Yes, they look cool, but how messed up is that? I think that's the sort of thing that people mean when they talk about cultural appropriation.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yeah, that is a giant issue. Although you are so right, the war bonnets are flippin' amazing, I won't be wearing one any time soon because there is no context where I would have earned the right to wear one. I will say that I am part Native American (Cherokee), but I have basically no connection with that part of my heritage. I wanted to SO BADLY as a kid, though. Many parts of different Native American cultures really resonate with me, and I would love to be a part of it more!

      Delete
  3. Hi Emileigh,

    I love to wear elements of design from around the world, and through time. Mainly, this this is apparent in small details, or subtly reflected in silhouette. I also wear or make garments with an traditional/ethnic fabric made into modern or vintage "western" styles. Combining one traditional "non-western" piece into a "western" outfit is also enjoyable, and I think it is respectful. I love to make jewelry with components from around the world.
    I am careful to learn about traditional fabrics and beads that are new to me so that I can use them respectfully.

    I'm certainly not saying that it is disrespectful to wear head-to-toe clothing from another culture. I think we just need to be thoughtful about the choice. For example, I think you show respect when you wear your traditional Indian blouse and pants. Part of this is that I know that you have a special connection to this type of clothing.

    Thanks for the thought-provoking post!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, I think you're totally right! It is very important to be thoughtful about when to wear another culture's clothing, but it can also be an amazing blend to incorporate another culture's pieces, like you do. Your pieces sound amazing (and unique!), and it sounds like you do a good job of thoughtfully using the pieces!

      Delete
  4. I think cultural appropriation has been completely misused lately. I think so many people think it just means borrowing from other countries, and that means it is completely bad. When it becomes a problem is when the said item mocks said culture or religion. As Jenny mentioned with kimonos- that is a style really exclusive to Japan's identity, a country that has been closed off from other countries to a certain degree (aka trade was happening, but integration wasn't). Today, modern Japan has adopted western clothing, and the kimono is pretty exclusive to older Japanese or special occasions. That would be why if I went to Japan and wore a kimono the whole trip, it might seem inappropriate. But if I used the sleeves of a kimono as a form of inspiration for a new dress pattern, then that would probably seem okay. It is all about asking a lot of questions. Is this making fun of someone? Is this disrespectful to a religion? Why would someone get offended? Sometimes when people toss cultural appropriation around as a negative, it is trying to not share their culture. Some people are afraid their culture will become null, especially since we are such a global culture.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. True story. I just learned "cultural appropriation" as an anthropological term in school, so I didn't realize it had such negative connotations from being thrown around incorrectly or only in angry Tweets.
      Oftentimes people will take offense for people of other cultures, too, instead of asking if they are actually offended. I think your idea of asking a lot of questions is a really good vetting process for guarding the uniqueness of a culture but also opening up opportunities to be inspired by it.

      Delete
  5. What a post! And I really enjoyed it! It's such a fresh take on cultural appropriation and one that I think needs to be heard more often. You are so correct on so many levels and I agree completely!

    I've thought about tackling this issue myself, since my style for sure includes elements of various cultures, especially Hispanic, Native American, and Egyptian. I just could never put my notions into the right words! I also had problems because I often feel like I don't have a culture. It's strange for me to try to think what "American" culture is from a modern stand point, additionally I don't have any recent immigration in my ancestry. I have to go back before to Revolutionary War to reach the "old world", so I don't have say an Irish grandmother cooking traditional meals or encouraging Irish dressing.

    Overall cultural appropriation is just a difficult concept! And one that people have different ideas on.

    xoxo
    -Janey

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's so true! All Caucasians are usually lumped into the "white people" side of the (wrongly created) "white vs. people of color war of cultural appropriation." As if white people were all one culture! How ridiculous.
      I also struggle with the idea of not really having a traditional clothing. As Americans, unless you have a lineage that points back to another country... we really don't have a "traditional" type of clothing. (Unless it's cowboy hats? Pilgrim outfits?) I think America has had so many cultural influences since its beginning that nothing has been deemed "traditional American" style except, perhaps, jeans! In which case, the rest of the world has stolen our jeans style, so fair is fair. ;)

      But yes, all that to say, I identify. And it isn't just a white American problem either! Lots of people that have a "Heinz 57" heritage or immigrated here long ago don't have a traditional style that has been passed down, and that goes for Americans of every color. It's a real struggle!

      Delete
  6. I think it's all about the intent behind what you are wearing. Of course there can be misinterpretations and it is difficult when put in this situation. I think it's sad when clothing has to be politically motivated or a source of "control". There are so many positive ways to look at clothing and so many ways to view clothing as art. Also, if you look back to the 1940s, especially in the summer clothing styles you can see references to head wraps and wrapped types of garments....this is certainly influenced by different cultures...also take a look at the "new look" dome hats. I very much admire all the beautiful colors and designs in African textiles. There really is a lot of beauty to see and it makes for a closed sight to just look through one mirror. Even looking at the 1920s there was a big Egyptian Revival movement which is so intertwined in the fashion and so beautiful.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. So true, there's been constant borrowing of fashion pieces, but the ones that aren't blatantly, obviously copied from another culture usually aren't picked up on except by people who know the culture's fashion well!

      Delete
  7. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  8. As i see it, any time a barrier between two people relating to one another can be broken, its a good thing. Your story about adopting Sudanese style dress and the women's reactions is a great example of this. Clothing plays a huge role in how we categorize others as "like us" or "not like us". Not to digress into too much koombaya idealism, but I do believe we are all the same and that rigid ideas about preserving our differences is not the right direction to take. I'm not arguing for clothing sameness but I do think it's a mistake to go out of your way to not to be influenced by another culture when it's cultural intersections like these that help us see ourselves in people we might normally view as "the other". Oh and we don't live in vacuums and the idea that we could put on cultural blinders is plain unrealistic : ) Thanks for providing a forum for this really interesting topic Emileigh!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. True story, Snowma! You're very right, clothing does play a HUGE role in categorizing people. (Which is why I dressed the way I did in Sudan!) We DON'T live in vacuums, and taking part in another culture really can enrich both people's lives in a wonderful way.

      Delete
  9. This is SUCH an awesome post and since you were raised in a different culture as a westerners, I think you really have a perfect way of explaining the topic. I fell madly in love with Indian culture and bought a sari to wear to visit a temple with an Indian friend when I was in high school. I learned how to wear it properly and walk modestly in it. My friend was very honored and the people of the temple were pleased and complimentary of a white girl showing appreciation of thier culture. He taught me the temple etiquette while we were there and we participated in tge rituals together. I wore my sari for special occasions and also fell in love with the comfort and modesty of the Salwar kamees- oh and the beautiful prints! I think that saying cultural appropriation means whute people can't wear clothes from another culture is ridiculous. To do it with respect, modesty and courtesy is the key.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Also apologies for the bad spelling- I need to stop commenting while on my phone! ;)

      Delete
    2. You're very right! I hate how it's turned into a white vs. people of color war, as if white people were a homogenous culture just trying to steal other cultures. It's just not true! Other cultures borrow from Western culture, too. Think of how many non-Western people wear jeans and t-shirts, play violin and piano, or have an iPhone. We all borrow things!
      Not to mention, cultural appropriation can be a very positive thing, as you described. Cultural appropriation is one of the biggest reasons cultures even become aware of each other! We constantly, especially in America, integrate pieces of different cultures into our own. It's a part of globalization, too, as we become aware of other ways of life. How many of us like sushi? Wear flip flops? Have a silk dress? Enjoy Tex-Mex food? Drink tea? Like jazz or rap? All of these things are examples of good cultural appropriation!

      Delete
  10. I am a small percent Native American (not like everyone says they have some native blood, I have a CDIB card, I'm a tribe member, use native services and can tell you about my fully native family member) and I'm very disturbed by the use of headdresses in the fashion industry and by hipsters. Some things in cultures it's not a big deal, like if people want to wear turquoise southwestern style jewelry that's fine but headdresses are sacred and not even appropriate for all native people to wear. I'm choctaw and headdresses are not terribly common in my tribe. And even in ones where they are they were rarely worn by women.

    Anyway my point is you must be careful when taking things from other cultures and I recommend doing your research or simply asking someone in the culture if it's appropriate.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yeah, the use of headdresses really doesn't seem okay to me either. Granted, they are TOTALLY amazing, but, as you said, they have meaning that is ceremonially and culturally important and sacred. I think of it similarly to how I don't like it when non-military people wear military uniform pieces. They haven't earned the right to wear them, just as hipsters haven't earned the right to wear the headdress, since it represents leadership and experience.

      And, random note, my great grandmother was Cherokee and I know stories about her, but we can't prove it at all. It's very frustrating! It also saddens me that she really didn't pass on any parts of her heritage to my grandfather, but it was a difficult time for Native Americans (she lived in the late 1800s, early 1900s), so it's understandable.

      Delete
    2. Yeah my family is very lucky, our family member that came from England (stole away on a ship!) and married a Choctaw woman is buried in a town nearby in a cemetery where all of my family is buried. It is the land we were given by the government, my family donated it to a church so they allow us to be buried there for free. Anyway, when the roles started our family member was one of the first on it. Many were fearful, for good reason, to be on the list but thankfully ours signed up so it's pretty easy to trace. And my family has been good about passing down our family history. Though I look more dutch and Irish than Choctaw. I'm 1/128th Choctaw, I like have a bit more native blood but that is what is traceable.

      Delete
  11. First, I'm a long-time reader of your blog, but I've never commented. I'm really glad you write these controversially posts because fashion always makes some kind of argument. We might think it's just clothes, but even throwing on sweatpants to go to the store is making a statement of some kind.

    I think the key thread through your argument and many of these comments is listening to the culture from which you are borrowing. How does that culture seem to feel, as a whole, toward others wearing their items? If we wear something, and it's pointed out that it's not appropriate, will we remove it? Those are the kind of questions we have to ask and engage in active listening with other cultures, in my opinion.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for commenting! It's good to hear from you!
      You're very right on listening to the culture you're borrowing from or being inspired by. To me, there are some things that are "owned" by a certain culture because it's iconic for them to the point of almost representing them, and they're really the ones that should have say on the use of this "culture logo."

      Delete
  12. This was a very insightful post and like many other readers I agree that you should be mindful of the cultures. Though in today's times I find it hard to say one should not wear a certain thing because it's not part of their culture, because so many of us are a mix of many backgrounds. While I consider myself American I have Middle Eastern, Mexican, Native American and even European ansistery only one or two generations back. As long as you respect these cultures and wear their fashion respectfully, I think it's completely okay.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think that is a really good point, that especially in America there's a lot of us "Heinz 57" types with a mix of cultures in our heritage. If we could only wear clothing from our culture, it would be a tricky process to see who would "qualify enough" for each culture's looks!

      Delete
    2. "Heinz 57" that's the same term my grandpa used to use and I feel the same way :)

      Delete