Intercultural Vintage Background: Maasai-Inspired

source
The idea for an ensemble started with a blanket.

A red plaid blanket.


And now it is a fantastic outfit!  But... you won't get to see that until the next post, mwahahahaha!  First I want to tell you guys about the background behind the outfit and the people it is inspired by: the Maasai (or Masai) tribe of East Africa.



source
I'll start with the more personal connection to this tribe: You guys know I lived in East Africa with my fam and that my parents still live there.  For visa purposes and such, about once or twice a year we were required to leave the country we lived in to get paperwork sorted.  Kenya was directly south, easy to get into as far as travel visas go, and it's a beautiful country with fantastic shopping, so obviously it was the top choice! Kenya happens to be one of the countries in which the Maasai live (along with Tanzania).


source
As well, after I went to university, my sister attended a boarding school in Kenya for her last two years of high school. She, I'm told, had an amazing two years with some incredible schoolmates.  The culture of her school was very intercultural as it housed students from all over the world and was set in a rural area in the mountains.  Part of the culture there included an abundance of Maasai blankets or "shuka": loosely woven, usually red plaid or striped blankets perfectly sized for one person.  They are worn by the Maasai, often draped and knotted loosely around them.  The students carried these everywhere, using them as coats in cold weather, as fruit baskets, as blankets to sit on when outside.


source
When my sister came back for college, she gifted me with one of these blankets.  I've loved it and often used it when sitting outside, but most of the time it was tucked away.  I wanted to do it better justice as a souvenir of a country I've loved visiting.

So I made it into something you'll see in my next post, and it became the base of a Maasai-inspired ensemble!



source
The Maasai are a tribe known for producing fierce warriors.  In past years, they would hunt lions to protect their livestock and display their prowess, most often with only one man hunting and killing a lion on his own with a spear.  (Nowadays, with the declining lion population that has changed a bit.)  The men are agile and able to jump really high, a skill that is shown off in ceremonies. They are also considered some of the tallest people in the world (though I can't for the life of me find a source directly stating this with  scientific proof).



One of the things I most admire about the Maasai is their entrepreneurial spirit.  In modern-day Kenya and Tanzania, their traditional culture and ways of life are being threatened and influenced by urbanization and modernization, but they are fighting to maintain their identities.  One of the most brilliant ways they have begun supporting themselves in recent years is by selling their traditional handmade goods to tourists and other Kenyans.



source
They are especially known for their intricate beadwork.  They, like me, believe that "more is more" and often layer many pieces of jewelry on top of their wrapped fabric garments. They also trade their livestock for materials such as wire and beads to create these items, which they then sell to others.  They know they are good at what they do and that people admire their traditional work, so they cleverly play on that and sell it to them!  (Look below for more reading on this and the threats to Maasai heritage and prosperity.)

And now... just take in all the beauty!  I'll have pictures of my ensemble in the next post, and now it will make more sense to you guys since you know a bit about the Maasai that inspired it.



source
source
source
source
source
Further reading:
- Maasai Association: Preserving and Celebrating Maasai Cultural Heritage
- Video - Maasai: a Brief Understanding
- A Lesson from Louis Vuitton's Spring-Summer 2012 Maasai-Inspired Collection
- CNN: Will You Be Rocking the Maasai Look Next Fall?
- Maasai Women Launch Successful Dairy Business
- Can a Tribe Sue for Copyright?
- The Problem with White People Who Dress "African"
- Misappropriation of Maasai Culture - A Reflection of Eco-Tourism in Kenya

'Merica Eagle Muslin

Flashback Summer: 'Merica Eagle Muslin - 1940s button down blouse shirt outfit

I think most of us can deeply appreciate the beauty of a well-fitted button down shirt, as well as its El Dorado-level scarcity that makes it such a prize to have.  Being short, narrow-shouldered, and in love with 1940s styles, I have had a lot of difficulty finding such a blouse to add to my wardrobe, so I've endeavored to make it myself.

I discovered a really great contender with this 1940s pattern I sewed up a while ago.  Since then, I sewed other views from the pattern to make some work shirts for myself.  While it was fantastic, it also came untucked a lot when I would reach for things at work, and that annoyed me greatly.

Flashback Summer: 'Merica Eagle Muslin - 1940s button down blouse shirt outfit

Thus... I implemented this flex-sleeve armscye hack from the Boyer Sisters' blog, and it did wonders!  I am getting closer to the perfect blouse pattern, step by step...

I decided to round off the bottom of the armhole adjustment made in the hack tutorial, and I felt quite good that this was it. I would have a perfect blouse.  I recalled this hideously-awesomely 'Merica eagle fabric I had bought and new it would be perfect for a wearable muslin test of my pattern adjustments.  If it failed, I wouldn't be too upset.  If it worked... I would have a crazily American eagle shirt to wear, which is an obvious win.

It turned out perfectly wearable, as you can see!  While I feel it's the patriotic version of a wolf shirt, it's always acceptable to be cheesily patriotic in the Midwest.

Flashback Summer: 'Merica Eagle Muslin - 1940s button down blouse shirt outfit

Flashback Summer: 'Merica Eagle Muslin - 1940s button down blouse shirt outfit

The only issue?  I may have forgotten about directional prints, and now the eagles on my back are forever swooping downward.  But I don't see that part when I wear it, so I can deal with it.

Flashback Summer: 'Merica Eagle Muslin - 1940s button down blouse shirt outfit

At this point I'm getting nitpicky, but I have just one very small tweak for the next version... and, seriously, it will be a perfect blouse.  I just want to trim the front of the armscye to curve in a bit more, and it'll be good.  I've traced the adjusted pattern pieces to make new, fresh pieces to use on my next round of blouse-sewing.  

Flashback Summer: 'Merica Eagle Muslin - 1940s button down blouse shirt outfit

Flashback Summer: 'Merica Eagle Muslin - 1940s button down blouse shirt outfit

Until then, this blouse does quite nicely!  I wore it to a lunch date with my husband at the Aviary Creperie, one of my favorite restaurants in town. The bloused fit and cotton content makes it a perfect shirt for the upcoming patriotic summer season of July!

Flashback Summer: 'Merica Eagle Muslin - 1940s button down blouse shirt outfit

Flashback Summer: 'Merica Eagle Muslin - 1940s button down blouse shirt outfit

Outfit Details
blouse: me-made, Simplicity 4762
trousers: me-made, WH "Smooth Sailing" Trousers
belt: bought at local festival
shoes: Swedish Hasbeens
purse: gifted, from Kenya

Have any of you tried a flex-sleeve adjustment or found another tweak that aids in increasing mobility in vintage blouse patterns?  What do you think of this hideously-awesomely 'Merica eagle print?

Linden Lady Beach Pajamas

Flashback Summer: Linden Lady Brijee Pattern - 1930s Palazzo Pants

It's now full-fledge summer time here in Missouri, and it has coincided perfectly, for once, with my sewing plans.  When Brigid of the Boyer Sisters put out her "Linden Lady" palazzo pants pattern, I bought it immediately, thinking they would make fantastic summer pants.  At the time, it was a single sized pattern.  Earlier this year she multi-sized it, and I received a complimentary updated version to review.  I, of course, was very glad to do so, and now I have some fantastic summer trousers that coordinate perfectly with my giant summer hat!  (I have a summary of all of this below if you want the TLDR version.)

Flashback Summer: Linden Lady Brijee Pattern - 1930s Palazzo Pants

Flashback Summer: Linden Lady Brijee Pattern - 1930s Palazzo Pants

When I saw the pattern, I couldn't help but think of 1930s palazzo pant styles with giant sun hats and loose tank tops perfect for the beach.   Living in a land-locked state in the middle of the U.S., I obviously decided that that is exactly what I need... beach pajamas!  While they don't get used at actual beaches.... we have a lot of lakes and rivers around here that they still work quite well for.

The pants pattern comes with three waistband versions in different button and zipper combos to suit your preference.  I picked the view with just a zipper going all the way up the extra-high waistband.  I didn't make any changes to the pattern except to shorten it 3-4" for my petite self, an adjustment I usually have to do with trousers.

Flashback Summer: Linden Lady Brijee Pattern - 1930s Palazzo Pants

These were great to put together because there are only three pattern pieces, and I got them done in about a day.  No darts, lots of straight seams... It's fantastic!  This pattern would be especially awesome if you're a beginner sewist or newer to apparel sewing.  The instructions are really thorough and have very clear illustrations for each step.  It would be a lot more helpful to beginners than any patterns from the Big 5 or even most indie designers, and I highly recommend it.

Flashback Summer: Linden Lady Brijee Pattern - 1930s Palazzo Pants

I made mine up in a chevron print quilting cotton.  Sure, they wrinkle a bit when worn, but nothing beats breezy cotton on a hot day.  It breathes, it's comfy, and it will drape even more beautifully as it is washed and softens up.   And I managed to get the print mirrored at every seam!!!  I'm actually pretty proud of that, I won't lie.

Flashback Summer: Linden Lady Brijee Pattern - 1930s Palazzo Pants

The trousers are fantastic, but they really needed a top to coordinate.  I wanted it to be a really quick, easy top to merit the times I'll wear it outside.  I wanted it to be simple and not a lot of work so if I sweat or play outside in it... I won't feel like I need to coddle it or be careful.  Basically... I needed the 1930s version of a cutoff t-shirt.

I got a t-shirt that my husband has had that is too big for him, and I cut it up into a rectangle for the back and a shape for the front that looked like a triangle on top of a rectangle.  I folded the top point down and sewed it to make a tube, then I threaded a ribbon made of the trouser fabric through it, and... bam!  Matching top!  Done and done.

Flashback Summer: Linden Lady Brijee Pattern - 1930s Palazzo Pants

I highly recommend this Linden Lady Palazzo Pants pattern to you guys.  It's quite affordable, and it's great to support a budding female entrepreneur from our own vintage community.  I am definitely going to be making this pattern up again!

Here is a summary of the pattern details and things I changed:
Fabric: Buttercream quilting cotton 
Pattern: Brijee "Linden Lady Palazzo Pants"
Year: 1930s style
Notions: waist zipper, interfacing for waistband
How historically accurate is it? Cotton and metal zipper are accurate, the fusible interfacing no one can see is not... but no one can see it, so I'm going to say it's pretty 1930s.
Any tricky parts to the pattern?  Just be sure to mark front and back pattern pieces.  The leg pieces are huge, so it's a good thing to keep it all organized.  Also, the waistband is wider at the top than the bottom, so be sure not to flip it!
Did you change anything?  I shortened it by 3-4".
Time to complete: one day
First worn: 18 June 2016
Total cost: The pattern originally cost me $8 for the single size, and the multi-size was given to me by Brigid for review.  The fabric was about $20 for 4 yards. The zipper is from my stash.
Notes: I've gone into great detail above!  I love this pattern and highly recommend it!

How would you style palazzo pants?  What fabrics would you pair with this pattern for your own wardrobe?

C-Street Farmer's Market

Flashback Summer: Springfield, Missouri C-Street Farmer's Market, 1930s Dress

It seems to me that Springfield, Missouri is one of those communities that you love the more you get into it.  My sister is queen of local events and networking, so I've been trying to up my game and learn more about my hometown.

Flashback Summer: Springfield, Missouri C-Street Farmer's Market, 1930s Dress

Flashback Summer: Springfield, Missouri C-Street Farmer's Market, 1930s Dress

One of my favorite things to do on Saturday mornings is to go to Commercial Street (C-Street) and check out the small farmer's market there.  (It's one of three farmers' markets in the city.) The area is surrounded by quaint coffee shops, delicious bakeries, and small boutiques, so it's a great place to buy the veggies for the week then sip an ice cold beverage with a friend.


Flashback Summer: Springfield, Missouri C-Street Farmer's Market, 1930s Dress

Flashback Summer: Springfield, Missouri C-Street Farmer's Market, 1930s Dress

They oftentimes mix other events with the farmer's market, like the Car Show for the Kilties I attended recently or, in today's case, a dog adoption event!  There were lots of cute dogs around, and that made it a lot better, in my opinion.


Flashback Summer: Springfield, Missouri C-Street Farmer's Market, 1930s Dress

Flashback Summer: Springfield, Missouri C-Street Farmer's Market, 1930s Dress

I've been saving this 1930s crocheted dress for the summer when it would really fit the season.  I got it a few months ago in a FB group for vintage clothing that needs TLC. It was stained a bit under the arms and here and there, but a dip in retro clean and a wash has made it look like new!

It's made of cotton yarn and breathes beautifully with all the holes in the pattern and light color.  Topped with my giant sun hat Tanith Rowan custom-made for me, I had the best summer outfit ever!  I perused the vegetables and local crafts while feeling cool and put together.  Giant sun hats and lipstick do that.

Flashback Summer: Springfield, Missouri C-Street Farmer's Market, 1930s Dress

I also loved getting to know some of the vendors at the market.  I met Denise of Afromationpottery, a lady that makes pottery goods and also spins her own yarn.  I also got to meet the Sunflower Gardens crew that owns a family farm in the area.  I bought a cilantro/coriander plant and some gorgeous flowers from them that are now cheering up my front porch. 

Springfield, it's often said, is a mid-sized city with a small-town feel, and I'm learning to love it more and more!

Flashback Summer: Springfield, Missouri C-Street Farmer's Market, 1930s Dress

Outfit Details
dress: 1930s vintage
shoes: ModCloth
hat: Tanith Rowan Designs, custom-made (read about it in this post)

Have you rocked a giant sunhat yet this summer?  Do you have local farmer's markets you attend?  

Life Update: I'm Tired 'Cuz I'm a Builder

I realized something the other day.  I was pondering my life and why I feel tired and drained a lot (place twenty-something  "adulting" meme here), when I think I came upon a part of the answer...

I'm tired because I'm a builder!

I realized that I am in the process of building four very different things in life all at once. That might be why I feel drained a lot even though I get enough sleep.  I'm constantly thinking about how to make four different things better,  how to keep them going, how to build and grow them.


I'm building this blog, for one thing.  As any blogger will tell you, if you want your blog to grow you need to put a lot of effort in.  Photos, projects, new content... they all take work!  

my workout buddy Molly and I!
I'm also building a career.  Right now I'm working at two jobs to help my husband through his master's program, but I ultimately want to join the military.  I'm taking steps toward that, but it involves a lot of physical exercise, studying, learning, and effort along the way to be the best candidate I can and give myself the best shot at the kind of job I want.  


I'm building a church, too.  Obviously, not by myself, but I'm part of a team that has started a brand new church in our city that was officially launched last October.  It's a multicultural church, and we're in a very monocultural town.  It's pioneering type work that has never been done in our city, and we can't find many examples of other diverse churches in monocultural towns in the U.S.... so we're trying things and listening for God's guidance and learning a lot through trial and error as we do something new. 


Then, lastly, I'm building a family business!  Recently I've stepped into the role of managing my father's recording studio and music publishing company while they are out of the country.  While I grew up at this studio (my dad started it when I was in elementary school), I don't know all the technical aspects.  I'm learning office work, technical skills to do recording sessions, and working on marketing and expanding the business.  

All of this is a lot of learning and working outside my comfort zone, which often comes with new things.  It's a bit of a trying time, but I know I'm developing grit and moxie that will come in handy later.

I have to remind myself to be patient with me.  I think we expect ourselves to pick things up and run with them faster than we as humans are really able to do.  While we may be pretty bright, humans need time to adjust to change, and there's a lot of change in the modern world and in my current situation.  I need to be patient with myself and be willing to put in the work to see things grow over time, not just overnight like I may want.  Building things takes time.

All this to say, I know I haven't been posting as much as I used to, but it just might need to stay that way for a bit in order for me to keep my sanity.  I love this blog, and you readers are the best, so I'm not going anywhere!  I'm just building a lot of stuff right now and may post a bit less.  Some days I'm too tired to pin curl my hair and put on a nice outfit, and I know you guys understand.

Are you building any things in your life right now?  How are you adjusting to change or increased responsibility?

Egyptian Ramadan Skirt

Flashback Summer: Egyptian Ramadan Fabric Skirt

Flashback Summer: Egyptian Ramadan Fabric Skirt

Flashback Summer: Egyptian Ramadan Fabric Skirt

Today is the second full day of Ramadan, a holiday celebrated by Muslims that includes fasting during the day.  I'm a Christian, so I don't celebrate Ramadan, but I do have fond memories of living in Egypt and getting bags of dates and snacks thrown in my taxi window at sunset when everyone is breaking their fast.  Free snacks are always a win in my book.

Flashback Summer: Egyptian Ramadan Fabric Skirt

Flashback Summer: Egyptian Ramadan Fabric Skirt

In Egypt they also tend to decorate using some of their traditional fabric motifs more during Ramadan than any other time of the year.  This type of fabric has been made by men that appliqué gorgeous designs onto a base fabric (you can see examples of this on some pillows in my home in this post). Nowadays sometimes they'll cheat and print the designs onto the fabric, like the material I used to make this skirt!

They use the fabrics oftentimes as big dividers or screens for events, such as the giant dinners held during Ramadan.  The rest of the year they seem relegated to wedding halls and construction sites!  (You can see it in use during Ramadan in the picture below.)


source

I had some of this fabric cut out to make a dirndl skirt, but I hadn't put it together yet.  I figured now was the time to get on it!

I paired it with a bandana and a necklace made by an old grandma in my parents' village.  Because why wear just one thing around your neck when you can wear two?
I also wore my touristy belly dancer bracelet that jingles loudly when I move!  That with some sassy red heels and lipstick, and I was good to go!

And why photos at an old gas station, you ask?  Well... it was on my way to the grocery store and matched my blue skirt.  We're a bit lacking in Egyptian-style locales in my Missouri town, so color matching had to do.

Flashback Summer: Egyptian Ramadan Fabric Skirt

Flashback Summer: Egyptian Ramadan Fabric Skirt

Do you know much about Ramadan?  Have you ever broken the fast with a Muslim friend or have celebrated it yourself?