I don't know why I haven't jumped on the Smooth Sailing Trousers bandwagon until now… but here they are!
I went all out on workmanship and supplies in order to make these pants a durable, quality addition to my wardrobe. I used wool (with 2% spandex, I think) and mounted/underlined it in bemberg rayon.
I also utilized several of the techniques I learned in an online couture class I recently tried out. I pressed things carefully, underlined, did balanced darts on the back, stitched the darts and pleats down, did a handpicked zipper, and put belting in the waistband. The pants feel fantastic and don't require nearly as much ironing because of the wool content and rayon underlining. The rayon also keeps the wool from bagging out at the bum and knees.
I added the belting at the waist because I'm tired of waistbands that fold over and wrinkle. I've also found it more comfortable to wear, since I made the trousers fairly fitted. I've found that I'm not so worried about the waistband snap coming undone, and I don't feel like I have to "suck it in" all the time. The belting at the waistband and the rayon underlining hold their shape nicely.
I also used one more technique that I absolutely LOVE for seam finishing. I don't know what it's called, but basically it allows the underlining to wrap around to the front of the fashion fabric, enclosing both raw seams and leaving just as much seam allowance as there was to begin with. (Here's the tutorial I used to explain.) IT IS THE BEST. I didn't use it on the very curved seams, but it worked brilliantly for the side seams. I ended up hand finishing the curved seams with rayon seam binding and closed up the other edges with the waistband and hem.
I won't lie, I'm proud of these trousers. I'm going to wear them a lot! They're a bit wrinkly in these photos (I only steamed them after getting them out of a suitcase. Looking at the photos, I should've ironed them too! Then I might have been crouching and flailing all over looking for a camera piece before this...), but I still like them. I'll iron them before the next time I wear them, I promise! The fit is still a bit strange around the crotch and bum area, but not enough to make me not wear them. Pants are tricky this way, so maybe I'll be able to work it out on the next version. (Suggestions are welcome!)
P.S. I'll tell you more about the shirt in the next post!
Here is a summary of the pattern details and things I changed:
Fabric: 98% wool/2% spandex and bemberg rayon
Pattern: Wearing History Smooth Sailing Trousers e-Pattern
Year: mid-30s
Notions: metal zipper, trouser hook, snap
How historically accurate is it? The only thing inaccurate is the spandex content in the wool. Other than that… I think it's 30s authentic!
Any tricky parts to the pattern? Just general fitting, but most pants patterns need that. My muslin turned out a bit looser and longer than my wool fabric did for some reason, so I need to lengthen the legs and possibly increase the waist if I want more comfort next time.
Did you change anything? Yes, I had to shorten the pattern a few inches (shocking? No.), and I graded from a 24" waist to the 35" hip size. I also adjusted the front crotch curve to remove some fabric. There are still some strange wrinkles that I'm not sure what to do about, but that may just be the result of the pleats and 30s fit. (If anyone knows a solution, please share!)
Time to complete: A week, due to hand sewing and carefulness!
First worn: August 4, 2015
Total cost: $35 wool + $20 rayon, everything else from stash = $55
Notes: Seriously, make a muslin. It's always a good thing to do, especially when it comes to pants!
I have always been a fan of this pattern but haven't made a pair yet (I really need to). Anywho....your pair came out fabulously! I love your fabric choice and they look fabulous with that blouse:)
ReplyDelete-Madison
www.1minniemuse.blogspot.com
Love!! Love love love! :D These are simply fantastic, Emileigh! They turned out SO much better than mine (I used to stiff of denim... sigh), and I love all of the little details that you put into your pair.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing :)
xo,
-Charlotte
boyerfamilysingersblog.com
Everything about this look from the hair to the trousers reminds me of photographs I've seen of my grandmother in the early 40s. Love it!
ReplyDeleteA) OMG you look exactly like my Grandma's high school photos. Are you sure you're not a Ukrainian woman in the 40s?
ReplyDeleteB) The pants turned out beautiful! I like your use of the webbing in the waistband, and I always forget that magical lining trick. Gorgeous gorgeous work!
Haha, I don't think I've ever been Ukrainian, that I recall… But if you had a chance, I'd love to see the photos! It's always crazy to find a vintage doppelgänger!
DeleteI'll see if I can get my mom to scan them. :-P
DeleteThese look great! Personally, the Wearing History 1940s pants pattern is more flattering on me but you are rocking these!
ReplyDeleteYAY! They look amazing! Great tip about the belting for the waistband. I've had the folding-over-buckling-thing happening and I really hate it. I'll get belting for the next pants I do.
ReplyDeleteHow important do you think the rayon underlining is? I ask because my next pair of pants will be in wool gabardine and I'd like them to be rather flowy and light. I was hoping to skip the lining, but if it's a major "must-do" I will go get some rayon. Thoughts?
Personally, I would TOTALLY underline wool gabardine, just for the itch and chafe prevention that is good to do with woolens. And bemberg rayon is really thin, so it won't add hardly any weight at all. It also helps with wrinkling, so I'd recommend it highly! (And also… where did you get your fabric? I love wool gabardine!)
DeleteThose trousers are excellent, I can't get enough of 40s style trousers, they are really the best when it comes to fit and comfort - and they are so flattering on. Also, perfect hair day that you're having over here!
ReplyDeleteAw, thank you Harlow! I've FINALLY figured out my daily pin curl set!
DeleteThese look great on you! I loved your other 40s trousers too, just so you know :)
ReplyDeleteI've had some bad luck with these wide legged trousers, not sure it's my style.. I might try this pattern as a last resort, cause all versions I've seen has been brilliant:)
Aw, thanks Siri! My other pairs weren't awful, they just weren't exactly what I wanted. Thanks for the kind words, though! I do highly recommend this pattern!
DeleteThese pants look fantastic on you Emily! You did such a superb job! How was it working with the belting? I've always been curious about using it. Did it add much to the bulk of the waistband?
ReplyDeleteCheers!
Brigid
the Middle Sister and Singer
Thanks, Brigid! I rather liked the belting, actually. I like my waistbands pretty snug, and this feels better than my non-belted pieces. I am not afraid I'm straining the seams or anything, and it really didn't add much bulk!
DeleteOh my goodness, those pants look stunning, Emileigh!! And wowowow, all the techniques you implemented!! I need to make a pair this fall, I think! That blouse looks super interesting, I can't wait to read about it.
ReplyDeleteAnd your hair is super super cute!
Carla, TinyAngryCrafts
Thank you Carla! I finally have my pin curl set down!
DeleteWhat a lovely pair of trousers! They look really great, I can see they will be a really versatile piece for your wardrobe.
ReplyDeleteThank you! Yep, I'm going to wear them a lot. And make more.
DeleteThose trousers are fantastic. I love the colour and the style and they look great on you and I expect they are comfortable.
ReplyDeleteI am not gifted enough to make any but will try to buy a similar pair as I plan to wear trousers more when the weather gets cooler.
My stars, do you look fantastic! Not only are those pants awesome, but this whole outfit and your hairstyle work together in chic, classic, beautiful harmony.
ReplyDelete♥ Jessica
These turned out great! I really need to add another pair of 40s pants to my wardrobe. I have the Smooth Sailing E pattern but need to print and tape it together.... soooo many pages. I've seen many blogger's versions of this pattern so I'm sure I will love it too! I've had similar fitting issues with the other 40s pants patterns I've used. (Simplicity 3322 and Simplicity 1306) The fit across the bum, general baggy-ness, and lower crotch is an odd thing to get used to. Love the blouse too!
ReplyDelete-Emily
YES! I have some strange bum wrinkles as well…. but not bothersome enough that I won't wear them. I think it may also have something to do with needing to stabilize the parts cut on the bias better? I'm not sure.
DeleteWow, a stunning look! I have never lined so much as a skirt, let alone a whole pair of pants.... As I haven't even sewn pants yet that's not surprising either. :P This outfit is definitely giving me something to aim for that's for sure! You look amazing and your hair is so cute. :D ❤
ReplyDeletexox,
bonita of Lavender & Twill
This is so great! You did such an amazing job. I am definitely going to make these trousers now!
ReplyDeletehttp://welcometoflipsville.blogspot.ca