7 Steps to Start Historical Sewing

Flashback Summer: 7 Steps to Start Historical Sewing - Historical Costuming
Picture source






























No, you don't actually have to sew a dress this ginormous… Unless you want to!

For… pretty much ever, I've loved  historical garments. Who doesn't like giant hoop skirts, elegant fabrics, and yards of lace?  Well, at least, I definitely do!  I loved to imagine what it would be like to wear clothing like Anne of Greene Gables, Elizabeth Bennett, or Scarlett O'Hara.  But I never really considered actually making it.  I mean, I thought it would be cool, but it just had to be hard.  All those new undergarments, and *gasp*… making a corset?! That's for couturiers and fancies, not "normal" sewing people. Surely one has to go to a sewing school for a while to make this sort of thing…

However, the more I learned about vintage sewing and, later, historical/antique sewing, I realized this isn't true!  While some things can definitely be complicated (and expensive), it's doable when attempted step by step, in bite-sized pieces.  So this is what I'm going to do!  I'm delving into the world of historical sewing!

(Obviously, I'm not a new sewist. If you are, I wouldn't start with historical costuming. Get basic sewing and pattern-altering skills down first!)

At first, I was totally overwhelmed. There seemed to be SO MANY new terms, sewing techniques, supplies, and things I had never heard of before.  If you're like me… Never fear!  It's going to be okay!  This IS possible!  In case you're in this spot, too, here are my tips so far in figuring out how to start historical costuming:

Now, understand, I am not an experienced historical costumer. I just know that I've hit some walls in starting historical sewing, and I thought I'd share my tips--from a beginner's point of view--that helped me not feel so overwhelmed and confused! I hope they help!

1. RESEARCH.
Get on Pinterest, read blogs, look at Google images of different time periods. Pin things that seem extra pretty to you, then go back and see if a certain era kept popping up. This may be the time period you should go for first!  If you like it… try it!

Another thing to consider would be what sort of historical costuming events may be happening in your area. This could be a good motivator, and it may also help determine a time period for you to work with.  I'm not planning for a specific event, so I went with the first Pinterest strategy.

2. RESEARCH MORE.
Learn the nuances of the era you like.  If you've figured out, for example, that you like Civil War era dresses, then start studying what dresses looked like right before, during, and right after the war. Get familiar with trends and read up on what characteristics are particular to this period.  I even began to test myself on Pinterest by typing in a time range (like 1870s-1890s) and guessing specific years each garment was from in that era. (Of course, Pinterest isn't 100% reliable, but it makes you think!)  This helped me sharpen my observation skills and remember what trends are common in the era I'm looking for, and how to differentiate between the years before and after it.

3. Gather ideas.
Once again, I pinned.  I made a Natural Form Goals board in which I placed pictures of garments, fashion illustrations, paintings, and reproductions of Natural Form (or close) garments whose fabric, trim, or silhouette was especially lovely to me.  This will give me ideas for my garment projects later and determine what kind of look I'm shooting for. 

4. Figure out what's needed to create the look.
Blogs were especially useful to me at this point. Now that I knew what look I liked, I needed to figure out how to create it.  What undergarments are necessary?  Are there defining features of the corset or other undergarments that are particular to this period? For the Natural Form era, I learned that I will need Natural Form hoops, a corset, a petticoat, a chemise/drawers or combination, and probably a bum pad.  These are going to be my starting projects.  Also look into the kinds of fabrics used and what prints were common.  Fabric goes a long way in making a garment look authentic.

5. Who is the expert in this era?
Find out who is knowledgeable.  Look for blogs, Facebook groups, books, and articles written by experts that can help you in your journey. Especially when it comes to sewing the garment itself, look for pattern reviews or blog posts that can show made-up garments and tell how historically authentic something is.  If in doubt, join a Facebook group and ask lots of questions or contact a blogger that has a lot of experience to help clarify things for you.  (Though, as a blogger, I'd suggest combing their blog for relevant posts first. If you still don't find an answer, then ask!)

6. Decide what project to do first.
Take into consideration the order of your projects. It will do you no use to sew a dress if you don't have the proper undergarments. You'll have to readjust it all later anyway if you go that route (and it won't look right to begin with), so it makes sense to start with the inner layers and work out.  For me, this means I'll be making a chemise and set of drawers first, then a corset.  After that I'll do the other undergarments, then finally the outer layers and accessories!

7. TAKE THE PLUNGE!
Buy the pattern book. Get the sewing supplies. Get to clicking/shopping and just DO IT.  Take the leap.  I just got my pattern book, so this is the stage I'm at!  It's time to start SEWING!


Here are some blogs and resources I found helpful as I researched:
The Aristocat - This blogger has done a lot of time periods (back to the 1600s) and creates MAGIC.
Before the Automobile - This is the same blogger behind the blog above, with more posts! More awesome history and gorgeous garments to gawk at!

Festive Attyre - Jen creates clothing from the Renaissance up to mid-20th century. I found her posts on 1870s garments, skirt supports, and corsets VERY helpful.

American Duchess - Well-known in historical costuming circles, this blog is full of good stuff from lots of eras, especially the 1700s.

The Dreamstress - She has lots of examples of period garments with careful, observant descriptions, along with several sewing projects, explanations of terms, and history. Her 1870s posts were great for me!

What other blogs/websites have you found useful in researching for historical costuming information? Have you delved into historical costuming?  What eras are most intriguing to you?

22 comments

  1. Congrats on taking the plunge into historical costuming! I don't think the sewing is particularly harder than regular dressmaking, there are just more layers to make! Stay making and corset making are definitely a bit more involved than regular sewing, but I wouldn't say they are particularly more difficult, just more time consuming and have more steps. Your tips are great! I would add Katherine of The Fashionable Past (http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/) as another blogger with great tutorials and resources on her blog!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am SO GLAD to hear you say that about corsets! That part is most intimidating to me, I won't lie. Phew. That's good to know. I'm still reminding myself, "Baby steps, it's OKAY! You CAN make a corset! You can do it!"

      Delete
  2. Yay! Welcome to the club! :-) I've gotten away from doing as much historical work as I used to, but it's such fun and I love exploring history through clothing! I am so jealous that you have Pinterest while you're starting out... It was a bit harder to start from scratch even just 10 years ago. :-) Historical clothing (and the ease of bookmarking sites and reference photos) was the reason I first got an account and like you mentioned, it can be SO helpful!

    Blogs are awesome, but the next most helpful thing for me was books. Most library systems have lots of the "greats", though if you're in a rural area like me you might need to get them through inter-library loan. Some good authors would be Janet Arnold, Jean Hunnisett, Norah Waugh, Nancy Bradfield (personal favorite!), Linda Baumgarten, Ninya Mikaila, and... well, lots more that I'm forgetting now. ;-)

    Have fun and enjoy the process!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oooo, that's a very good point! Books are REALLY helpful. I'm just starting to gather books (I have… two, as of yet), so I don't know of good authors. I'm glad you put a list! I'm going to check them out!

      Delete
  3. I love historical costuming. I actually started there and then worked my way backward to regular every day (vintage) wear. I was an actor with the local renaissance festival for many years along with various other historical events. It is a great undertaking when you are building court gowns that have 10-15 yards of fabric pleated into the skirts. It is so rewarding though when you see a gown come together, all of the underpinnings and the over dress, hats, accessories, building a complete outfit. I can't wait to see what you put together. Good luck!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wow, working backward is impressive! I can't imagine doing a whole renaissance gown when I first started!
      I can't wait to put a whole outfit together either, and I just hope it doesn't take me forever!

      Delete
  4. As Lily said, welcome to the club! I warn you, historical sewing is VERY addictive but SO MUCH FUN! Check out my "How Tos" and "Resources" tabs on my blog. I have a bunch of stuff you might find useful including a list of books and places to find good quality fabrics for historical sewing. And never be afraid of asking too many questions! :)
    -Emily

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. VERY GOOD! I definitely will. And if I get really stuck I'm totally messaging you.

      Delete
    2. Please do! Happy to help any way I can. :)

      Delete
  5. This is such great advice. I am itching to sew myself a dress but do not know how to get sleeves right. I've wasted perfectly good fabric on projects that I've given up on. So for now I've only hand sewn skirts, with out using a pattern. I've tried using store bought patterns but they make me nervous since the paper is so thin. And I never know how to correctly cut out the pattern for my size, it always ends up to small.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You can always trace the pattern onto other paper! Then if it isn't quite right, you haven't ruined the original pattern!

      Delete
  6. Oh how exciting! I have no interest currently in doing historical costuming for myself, but I've always loved fashion history. I had a great book of paper dolls years ago which was fashion through the decades from 18th-20th c. If I was to do any though, I would try to replicate some of the day dresses from the new BBC Poldark. I was surprised at how elegantly simple and wearable the 1780's fashions looked.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Congrats on the plunge :D I just finished my first historical costume couple weeks ago (1700's peasant outfit with shift, skirt, pockets, jumps, scarf and cap). I also have one garment I finished earlier, but I didn't make it completely, just a gown I found from local Opera yard sale, and altered into Regency style costume. Currently I'm making late 1700's British Military costume for my hubby.

    I find all this very exciting, now I have finally made "the plunge" as you say (I have wanted to do that quite many years now, but never seemed to had the time). I am professional seamstress so I do have quite a lot of knowledge about techniques, pattern drafting and such, but it definitely still is HUGE task to tackle. So, good luck for both of us!

    ReplyDelete
  8. What a great post, and welcome to the club! I'd like to add an online historical costuming magazine to the mix - YourWardrobeUnlockd.com - as well its sister site, focussed on corsetmaking and underwear, FoundationsRevealed.com. I'd love to connect and arrange a free membership for you so that you can take a look around and advise me. I'd appreciate a beginner's perspective on how both these sites can improve what they offer to those just starting out!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Cathy, that would be FANTASTIC. I checked out FoundationsRevealed.com real quick, and it looks extremely useful! I'm going to reply to your email I just saw...

      Delete
  9. Jennifer's blog is really great, too! http://historicalsewing.com
    And I know I'm not blogging as much as previously, but I have some historical sewing stuff on my blog, too :) http://wearinghistoryblog.com
    So excited to follow your journey!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You DO have great stuff on your blog, and I don't know why I didn't think of it!

      Delete
  10. This post was very timely for me :) I have been on the fence about historical sewing for years, but I really feel the need to do it! I want to have a full Victorian outfit. I can't think of a good reason for it, I just need it :) And so I too, have made the decision to go for it. I am on the researching stage, specifically corsets. They are intimidating, but how hard can it be, right? ;)

    ReplyDelete
  11. these tips for getting into historical costuming are really helpful! even for a historical costumer like me! and I agree with vintagevisions 27 it's definitely addictive, so watch out! I was going to suggest historicalsewing.com but I can see that someone has already :) there is also Izabela of prior attire https://adamselindisdress.wordpress.com/

    ReplyDelete
  12. While your point about not starting with historical might be wise, it is certainly not necessary. I began with historical, and since I'm impatient and I was making them to fancy dress standards, they weren't all great, but when I took the time to make them properly, it wasn't as hard as you might think. My victorian corset and other undergarments are probably the best clothes I've ever made, and I managed to do them before ever sewing a simple skirt for everyday wear! (Also, the best part about making a corset is how ridiculously pleased with yourself you will be!)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yeah, it's definitely not necessary, I think it has more to do with how much help you have around you. Historical clothing (at least from what I've found), doesn't have as many instructional resources as, say, some new elastic waist skirt from Simplicity. But if you have someone around that can help you, you're right! Historical stuff isn't always ridiculously hard. I just can't imagine learning to sew by making a corset. Very impressive!

      Delete
  13. Seriously terrific post! I'm not a sewer myself, but if I was, I am all but certain that I would be into historical costuming. I've been studying the topic since I was a small child (I read every last book on it that my town's small public library had back then) and follow many historical costuming blogs because there is so much inspiration and information to glean from many of them, even if one isn't a seamstress themselves.

    ♥ Jessica

    ReplyDelete