Controversial Post: Refashioning Perfectly Wearable Vintage

Oh man, do I expect this post to be a controversial one.

To begin, when it comes to the issue of refashioning perfectly wearable vintage, I want to start by saying that I am very torn, and I am going to present my thoughts on both sides in relation to a wardrobe dilemma I have going on right now.  But I in no way have a completely formulated opinion on this subject, so I'd love to see what those of you in the vintage community have to say about it!

Here's my problem:
I have a 1950s novelty print skirt that I adore (see the post on it here)...



... but I find the 1950s full-skirted shape to be extremely impractical for my life and incompatible with my personal style. (Look around on the blog; I rarely wear pouffy skirts.)

So I had a controversial idea:  What if I took the skirt apart and used the yards and yards of fabric to make a slimmer dress I would wear that looks similar to the one below?



In this I am addressing the idea of not just altering for size, but doing major alterations and refashioning a vintage piece that is otherwise perfectly wearable into something else.

And here are the pros and cons I have thought of, starting with the cons:

1. How could I refashion perfectly good vintage?!
It's long been a personal law of mine, after seeing such vintage butchery (like the designer that cut up eleven 1930s gowns to make one evening gown), that refashioning perfectly good vintage causes a loss of history.  Most often vintage is one of a kind and can't be replaced.  When it's gone, it's gone forever.

2. Refashioning a vintage piece can make it too tailored to one person's style and no longer authentic.
Sometimes a person will take a gorgeous vintage piece and make it so uniquely tailored to their own style that it really doesn't work for anyone else, and a vintage piece is lost to the community again.

3. There is very little comparative resale value.
After a vintage piece has been refashioned, it's kind of not really vintage anymore.  Attempts to resell it won't bring good prices, generally, and many vintage-lovers will give you major flak for "ruining" a good piece and refuse to pay a vintage-worthy price.  Not that I necessarily ever plan on selling this, but the piece will seem like a vintage "half-breed" to some in the vintage community and may not get much respect.

And now for the pros:

1. I will actually wear it.
Clothing is for wearing, isn't it?  Hearkening back to Toy Story 2, I would think a skirt would rather be worn in a different form than relegated to a closet forever and lacking purpose, if it could speak.  (Like how Woody would prefer to be a bit scuffed and played with than pristine and in a display case, catch my drift?)

2. I would still be making a piece true to the fabric and its era.
I'm not making a razzle-dazzle burlesque costume or 90s-inspired mini dress out of it; I want to make a dress that is still a 40s-50s style.  In fact, somewhere there very well could have been a dress like that made out of this exact fabric, as the vintage example above shows.

3. I can't find this fabric anywhere else.
I've looked.  I can't find this fabric or one similar to it anywhere.  Middle East novelty prints rarely come up in clothing, and I don't think I've ever seen one still left in raw fabric form.  And the odds of running across it are, apparently, ridiculously slim, so I can't just make a dress with this print when I want.

4. Women in the '40s would have done it.
Hello!  Does anything get more "make do and mend" than this?  This is exactly what women were doing, especially in the 30s and 40s.  Women were using old shirts and tablecloths to make their clothes; I'm sure they did not shrink at refashioning a skirt.


So what are your thoughts, vintage friends?  How do you feel about refashioning vintage?  I'm truly torn on this one, and I've labored over it for a while.  Please spread the word and let's get a good conversation rolling on this!

38 comments

  1. Personally, I don't make alterations to a vintage piece that can't be unaltered (ie taking up the hem or moving the buttons for a better fit) unless part of the garment is ruined beyond wearability (ie huge hole or stain that won't come out).

    I won't think you are a horrible person or anything if you do decide to refashion it but if it was me, I'd definitely opt for finding this beauty a new home rather than possibly ruining the fabric for ever in an attempt to refashion. It's really a wonderful, desirable piece that deserves to be preserved as long as possible.

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    1. Yes, not making "unalterable" changes to clothing has been my stance up until recently. I completely understand, and I'm still not 100% sure on what I do. You can be sure that if I do decide to alter it, though, I'll DEFINITELY be running my plans by you guys to make every effort to NOT ruin this awesome piece!

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  2. I say you should go for it! As you said, you'd be refashioning it into a dress that stays true to the aesthetics of when it was created, and you have sewing experience so you don't run a high risk of ruining it. I know it's a tough dilemma; I used to be much more of a purist with vintage, along the lines of Stephanie Lynn above, but I've loosened up considerably when it comes to altering vintage so long as you do it in a thoughtful, skilled way. So many vintage pieces have been altered a million times already before they get to us! I have a lot of late '40s/'50s cotton dresses that I know, from their era, must have had sweeping full skirts originally, but by the time I find them in thrift shops, some owner along the way has made them above-the-knee length... which I appreciate and find more comfortable! Sometimes I do a little refashioning with Edwardian dresses that are too small, inserting extra lace panels; it's doubly good because it means I get to enjoy the piece, and with restitching it, you're creating new strong seams so the risk of it falling apart greatly decreases. So if refashioning your skirt means you'll wear it more and get to really enjoy it, why not? :)

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    1. Thank you for your input, Dakota! I'm still a bit on the fence, but I've enjoyed hearing your thoughts on this!!!

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  3. I literally just wrote something about this in a post I have scheduled up for later. I'd love to hear what you decide to do with it in the end.

    I also don't have a fully formulated view on this topic, but I think I lean more towards altering something to make it work for you. After all, it is your personal property which you intend to wear, so in a way, I don't necessarily think it should be up to anyone else what you do with it.

    That said, I hate seeing 50s dresses online that have had the skirt hacked off to approximately crotch length, especially as there seems to be some kind of trend for also leaving the hems ragged and unfinished.

    Anyway, keep up updated!

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    1. Really?! Great minds think alike, huh? I can't wait to read your post on this!

      I also hate ridiculously hacked off dresses. SO DEPRESSING. I swear I won't do that. :)

      I'll definitely keep everyone updated!

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  4. I say do it! I don't have enough vintage dresses in my wardrobe that I would dare alter; but since you're staying in the same era, definitely!

    Brigid
    the Middle Sister and Singer

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    1. Yes, I've only ever made extremely small changes that could be reversed, like hemming or other small alterations. This one has me a bit nervous, and I'm still not quite sure what I'll do. Thank you very much for your input in the discussion! I really appreciate it!

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  5. Granted, I'm not a 'full member of the vintage community' or whatever. I love vintage, but tend to enjoy a more retro-vintage inspired vibe than full immersion right now. So, granted some might think my opinion on this is simply because I'm not 'full fledged vintage'. But here it is anyway! :)

    I agree with your last pro. Vintage isn't just a way of dressing...it's an attitude and a way of life. And while we shouldn't be wasteful, and preserving history should be a top priority, I can't help but think 'make do and mend' on this. At the end of the day, it's just a skirt (a fantastic, fun, unique skirt...but still a skirt!!). It's just a thing. Things come and go.

    I'd say, make a dress! And I can't wait to see it!!

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    1. Hey, you're still in the community, Gillian! I haven't always worn full-out vintage (and I still don't wear it ALL the time), but if you love it, you're in!

      Thank you for sharing your opinion! I'm still not 100% sure either way, but I'll definitely keep you guys updated!

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  6. I'd say go for it! As you say, you are staying true to the aesthetics of the period the skirt was originally sewn, it is definitely in the spirit of make do and mend, and if you have zero intention of getting rid of it ever, make it something you will wear and love! I have a strong dislike of closet trophies, myself.

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    1. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Juliana! I'll keep you guys posted!

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  7. That is really tough, and I'm not sure what I would recommend. I think I wouldn't if it was me, because I would feel that someone else would love it as it is. I have a dress that has a hole burnt in the middle of the front and I still feel guilty about planning to cut it up. But those are my issues!

    Anyway, I just wanted to ask whether you had considered trying to scan/photograph the print clearly and use Spoonflower or something similar to reproduce the fabric design?

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    1. I pondered reproducing it, but I don't think I can due to copyright laws. I didn't create the fabric or have rights to it, so I don't think I can lawfully recreate it. I'd hate to gyp the artist that created it.
      Not to mention, I can't really get a good picture of the design because of the pleats.

      That being said, I'm not really sure what I'm going to do. I truly love the fabric (which is the unique part of the skirt anyway, not really the skirt design itself), so I'll be sure to keep you guys updated!

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    2. That is true. I would think that you could reproduce it for your own personal use without issue, just not make it available to others, but I'm not sure.

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  8. I'm no vintage purist (I would only buy accessories vintage because I would be too afraid to wash authentic clothing), but I think that the dress is *still* a part of history because the fabric (which is from the '50s and apparently is very, very hard to find now if it's possible at all) seems to be more important than the cut of the skirt and you are absolutely preserving that.

    And yes, clothes are made to be worn, you *love* that print, and you have the sewing skills to turn it into something new, beautiful, and still "authentic" in its own way.

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    1. Thank you for sharing your thoughts, Caroline! I think I'm kind of leaning your way on this issue, but I'm not totally sure what I'm going to do yet. I'll keep you guys posted!

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  9. I completely understand the argument to not rip apart certain vintage/antique pieces due to their rarity and historical significance. But I do feel like sometimes the idea of "preserving history" is a big load of crap. Don't get me wrong. It is important to save this stuff, but there are two things I've learned over my years

    1) Historically, we have used, and re-used a lot of things. Furniture gets passed down or chopped up and reused all the time. It is only recently that most people have the money to redecorate and redo their entire wardrobe on a whim. Even things as small as knobs, screws, and scraps get reused all the time. Like buttons being reused for new sewing projects.

    2) Fabric is really fragile. So no matter how hard we try, we will NEVER save it forever. It will eventually dissolve and become part of our earth. Am I saying to not bother saving things? No. But the idea that we will save this working class girl's dress 1,000 years from now is crazy unless we boxed it right after it was finished being made. There is a reason why our oldest dresses are expensive dresses, they were worn a whole lot less and very carefully stored. Who knows, maybe historians 2,000 years from now will think "why did women wear this big white dresses so much? That's all we can find!"

    With that said, I think we are honoring the people who designed the print and made the fabric by repurposing it. I mean what is the difference with me ripping up a skirt that is 10 years old and making a purse out of it compared to a skirt that is 50 years old? Okay I get there is a difference, but the newer skirt WILL be vintage in a few more years.

    I love vintage because to me it loving something that someone else forgotten. No I don't think tearing apart 30 dresses to make one is a good idea. But there is something nice reusing materials. It is something we don't do today. Sure there is a resurgence for found objects but it really isn't something that most of the population does. I think people don't appreciate objects until they start sewing, baking, and building things themselves. (Not saying the people don't appreciate their vintage dresses, more so saying people take their cheap mainstream new clothing for granted)

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    1. Yeah, all that you're saying is true! I'm still not totally 100% sure on what I'm going to do, but you have made some really good points. (Especially about wedding dresses in 2,000 years, ha!!!) Thank you for sharing your thoughts, and I'll keep you guys updated on what happens to the skirt!

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  10. I just discovered your blog recently and went through and read all your archives :) This is my first time commenting!
    My opinion is, clothes are not sacred and so if they are still wearable, then yes they should be worn! If by altering this skirt into a dress means that it is still living, rather than being banished to the dark corners of your closet, then yes you should do it! Like others pointed out, you are not “modernizing” it- (aka chopping it off mid-thigh- shudder!) you are planning on keeping the vintage style- more of a make-do-and-mend attitude.

    On the other hand, there is also the issue of whether the skirt will physically hold up to being altered. I have taken apart garments that I have sewn myself, (so they are good quality materials) after a few years to alter things and had a difficult time of it because of the wear and tear the cloth has had. (and I hand wash, line dry most of my clothes) If you inspect the skirt and there are not fade marks or rub marks- especially where the gathers are at the waist, then I would do it: however, be careful!

    That being said, I do sometimes weep a little inside when I see other peoples “modernizations/ alterations” that have ruined something I know was once beautiful. :(

    -Nicole

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    1. Thank you so much for commenting, Nicole! I'm glad to hear from you and I hope you'll keep joining the discussions in the future!

      I'm leaning your way on this, I think. It makes me sad to know that so many fabulous items are stuck in closets somewhere, unworn and unappreciated. However, you are also right in that I, too, have shuddered seeing horrible modernization/alteration failures.

      I still haven't completely decided on what to do, but if I do decide to alter it, I'll keep you guys as accountability on the revamping process to make sure I don't ruin it! I would cry. So I'll have you guys make sure any plans I have thought of will actually work!

      Thank you again for commenting! You have great input and I hope to hear from you again!

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  11. You know my first thought is that this is indeed your skirt and it is your choice to change it as you like. I guess the one thing that might be a little sad is if you were to tear apart the skirt and decide there wasn't enough to make your plans. Also, is there a way for you to trade this skirt for something you do like? It's difficult with vintage. On one hand it is kind of an art history on another it is clothing and things happen to clothing. My over all feeling is that this really is your skirt and you want to make it into something you enjoy, you are right ladies of the past would have and have done the same.

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  12. Can I also say, that you look so wonderfully pretty in a full skirt! I think you might want to reconsider your position on wearing it as is :) I've recently just hit the novelty skirt bug fascination. I've just bought a few in a relatively short period of time. They are so fun, kind of like postcards of the past.

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    1. Thank you very much, Joanna! I appreciate your input on this! I do LOVE the fabric used in novelty skirts, but pouffier skirts are just not quite my thing, so I'm at an impasse. I think I'm starting to lean in one direction, but I'll definitely keep you guys updated and use you guys as sewing accountability if need be to make sure, if I do decide to refashion it, that I won't kill it!
      BTW, I saw some of your novelty skirt pics on the Oh La La page, and they're ADORABLE. Seriously, you're growing my love for novelty prints too!

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  13. It is a really beautiful piece, and it would be great if you could find a way to trade it for something that fits your lifestyle a little bit better. However, I think you're right that clothes are meant to be worn, and if you think that you can make the skirt into something you're more likely to use, I'd say go for it. Vintage clothing is precious in the sense that it's unique, there's never going to be any more of it, and it can feel really great to know that you're wearing a dress or skirt or whatever from a completely different historical time period than you. Of course, there are also practical concerns, which other people have mentioned - is the fabric sturdy enough, and do you have enough yardage to complete your project? It would be a pity to try to reconstruct the skirt and have it not work out. But I think it's also pretty historically accurate, so to speak, to refashion the skirt to suit you better. After all, thrift and creative repurposing was a way of life back then.

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    1. Hello Jessica! Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts. I really wish there was something similar already out there, but 40s novelty prints like this are MUCH harder to find. (In fact, I've only ever seen a pictures, nothing actually for sale). I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to do yet, but you can rest assured that if I do decide to alter the skirt, I'm going to take every precaution and keep you guys updated so I'm sure not to kill it! (I, too, would cry if that happened.)

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  14. I think it depends on the garment and the life it will have going forward. If you were to alter it and tire of it quickly that would be more the shame. But what if you get a whole new long life out of it? I think you should go with your heart!
    Marie @ In Our Happy Place

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    1. That's a good point, Marie. I'm not totally sure of what I'll be doing yet, but I think I am leaning one way. I'll be sure to keep you guys updated!

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  15. Ohhhh dear. This is a stunning skirt, and true vintage birder prints in good condition are so hard to find!!! For the fact of what it is, and being in good condition I personally would never re fashion it...When it comes to unique vintage items such as the print on this I think it's more important to preserve history.

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    1. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Amber! I hope to hear from you again! :)

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  16. Hum, well... people have made lots of good points both ways, but perhaps a more pressing question is: is there enough of it to really do what you want? Making a bodice with the border print neatly aligned will take quite a bit of fabric, and there may not really be enough of it to both do the bodice well and maintain a skirt that you like (especially since the one you posted looks nearly as full, it just isn't worn with a petticoat). Alternatively, have you tried styling it sans petticoat yet? I mostly live in full skirts, but a petticoat plus or minus really can make a difference.
    (Oh!!! One more thing... a cursory googling brings up this: https://www.etsy.com/listing/112798963/mid-century-gray-printed-cotton-fabric?ref=tre-306610460-9 , is that, perchance, your fabric?)

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    1. Hey Frances!
      First off, I also googled and nearly swooned with happiness when I saw that Etsy listing! However, I was disappointed to find that it has sold. :(
      I also considered the amount of fabric, and I planned on doing some measuring and a test run on a muslin first before taking the skirt apart, just to be sure. I'm not 100% decided on what I'm going to do, but trying that out would have a big effect on my decision, so I think I'll be trying it soon. I'll definitely keep you posted!

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  17. I'm pretty much in the don't alter camp, but there are exceptions. If the item is in really poor shape and is just not wearable or worth anything to a collector, then I'll use the fabric in projects. If I want to alter an item to make it wearable for me, I don't do anything that can't be reversed. I'm getting ready to reline a 1960s jacket, but I'll keep the old lining and buttons, which I'm also changing.

    I never encourage the recutting of old clothes, not because they are all valuable, but because so many of them are, and most people can't tell a Sears dress from a Charles James!
    But your skirt was a mass produced item that is relatively common. Cutting it would not be a big vintage sin, in my opinion!

    Just a note about the fabric, I'm pretty sure it was reproduced about 8 years ago, and a company called Bernardo (not sure if it's the shoe company) made gathered skirts from it and other vintage reproduction fabrics. Seems like a crescent was removed from the top of a mosque, and a seated man was removed in the reproduction. The original was called "Casbah" and it was made by Millworth Converting Co. I have the same print in black.

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    1. I actually found out a lot about the print from your site! I didn't realize it was so common until I read some of your posts and some others, and that is influencing my decision. Though I've only seen the actual fabric for sale once (sold by the time I saw it), I see the skirts everywhere. So.... I'm kind of agreeing, that "cutting it would not be a big vintage sin"!

      I am going to see if I can find the reproduced fabric you are talking about, though. That would be a better option if I can find it! Thanks for the tip!

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  18. What a post! I really admire you for taking a stand and putting your thoughts an opinions out there on this subject because for MONTHS I have been facing the same one myself. Like a few others mention, I often only do alterations that can be undone, nothing drastic, but sometimes there is something you just love, and, like you said, can't find the fabric anywhere else! I'm STILL torn on the item I have in mind myself.

    If you decide to go forward with the process, I really do look forward to the outcome and to hear your experience and feelings.

    xoxo
    -Janey

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    1. It's good to know I'm not the only one out there contemplating vintage "heresy"! I'll definitely keep everyone updated and let you know how it goes! Hopefully it will help you in your dilemma!

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  19. Emileigh, that you are thinking about the pros and cons, to me is the most important thing, regardless of what you decide at the end of the day.
    If all we were focussed on was preserving vintage- we wouldn´t wear our clothes- we´d pack them away.

    I think most of us actually want to enjoy our clothes while holding some responsibility for future generations who might also want to enjoy vintage in the same way we have. To me a 50s cotton skirt is a ¨daily driver¨- I wear mine everday- to work, doing errands and going out. I´m not sure all of them will outlive me. However I do expect to pass on my evening dresses, western, coats, suits etc. and jewellery- the things that will last because they are not worn often or in the case of jewellery because they won´t deteriorate in the same way.

    I do do alterations so that things fit me. I don´t focus so much on it being reversible- because women in the day got their dresses altered to fit! I don´t so much alter the integrity of the garments original design, but I have done it at times and on one occasion regretted it (don´t ask me why I thought it was a good idea to cut up a catalina bathing suit- won´t be doing that again!), but in other cases I have loved my altered garment even more- and not planning on selling them!
    I don´t think focussing on resale value should trump everything. And really, I´ve never had a problem selling anything I´ve owned that has been respectfully altered or carefully repaired- most people appreciate a garment being cared for.and dealing someone who can explain exactly what has and hasn´t been done to a garment.

    Personally I think you should consider the role vintage plays in your life. If you are a ¨wear it a few times and flip it kind of girl¨ then don´t touch it and sell it now. If you think you can créate something that will be in your wardrobe for years, worn and loved (and you aren´t fussed about what it is or is not worth) then go for it. Your plans for it are in keeping with designs of the time.

    It´s interesting reading everyone´s thoughts.

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  20. I know this post is from ages ago but I came across it - coincidentally - just as I started to alter a 60s suit skirt that doesn't fit me so that I can wear it with the jacket and shell top, which do. I also altered a 50s wiggle dress the other week that had full-length sleeves and quite a high neckline and was unflattering because the overall impression was just too. much. fabric and I looked like a sofa. I took those sleeves to just below the elbow and have worn it twice since then. A tiny alteration, and a 'modernising' one, but one that makes the difference between a wearable dress and something that is a bit ugly.
    Did you alter your skirt?
    I think a few things about your original post:
    (1) you are absolutely right that the original owners of these clothes would have made the alterations. They would also have completely 'modernised' garments if they fancied. My mother altered garments three and four times between the late 50s and the 70s. I still wear some of the later incarnations today, and she has altered a couple of these for me.
    (2) there isn't necessarily someone out there - never mind someone you can find - for whom any given garment will be perfect. My 60s suit is a case in point - there is a big difference in sizing between the top and bottom. The chances of finding someone who won't need to alter one or the other are slim. And that's partly because women in the past altered the clothes much more than we do to get a good fit - it's not uncommon for the vintage things I buy to have sizing oddities introduced by their original owners.
    (3) there are ugly as sin vintage pieces out there. Bad dressmakers existed in the past just as they do today, as did good dressmakers with bad taste. If that ugly garment can be made into a lovely garment I will wear, it stands a much better chance of being worn than if I hang fire for someone to fall in love with its hideousness - perhaps someone who wants to look like a sofa?
    (3) I am a little inclined to see absolutely reverence for 'pure' vintage as a little pretentious. There's a difference between archive collections - which are never worn - and pieces we wear. Wear a piece and you risk damaging it.
    I very much agree that Livia Firth's 11-dresses-into-one approach is a bit stinky though. Love your blog.

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