Fashion Revolution 2016 - I Make My Clothes

It's Fashion Revolution week!

This is the week dedicated to looking specifically at the issues plaguing the clothing industry and how we as everyday Janes and Joes can go about changing things for the better.  The week is hosted by Fashion Revolution, a non-profit organization created in the wake of the 2013 Rana Plaza Complex collapse that killed over 1,100 garment industry workers and injured over 2,500.  This event awakened many of us in the world to the reality of abuse and greed in the clothing supply chain, and we began looking at the brands we love, the factories that produce clothing, and our own habits to see how we can make things better.

We believe that fashion can be made in a safe, clean and beautiful way. Where creativity, quality, environment and people are valued equally.   - Fashion Revolution

But some of you may be like me... Mostly, you make your clothes. You buy vintage.  You make do and mend.  You're already doing many of the things that are recommended for revolutionizing the industry.  But that doesn't mean we're off the hook!  We can do better, and we can help others do better!

I'm pleased to say that In the Folds and Petit à Petit already thought of this, and this week they're coming at this fashion revolution from a maker's viewpoint.  I'm joining in and will be posting on IG and on the blog this week on the issue, and I'll be adding in a vintage-wearer's two cents while I'm at it!

(I strongly urge you to read the post from In the Folds about the meaning of this week. It's got an overview, explanation, and list of resources you can check out to learn more about the garment industry.)

Every day this week there will be a "prompt" posted by In the Folds on an aspect of the revolution.  I'm sharing my thoughts, as well as weaving in my ideas as a vintage wearer.  Today is:

Although not all of you are sewists, I know that many of you do identify.   You may also be a crocheter, knitter, weaver, milliner, etc.  There are many ways to make clothes!  Whether you have made all of your wardrobe or just a few accessories, making your own clothing is an amazing way to revolutionize the fashion industry.

Sewing has allowed me to rebel against the standardized sizing of fashion in the U.S. that doesn't generally fit me as a petite woman.  It has also given me the freedom to wear what I want instead of having to choose from what is available. It also makes the vintage styles I love more affordable and durable, rather than buying original vintage all the time.  Making my own clothing is just the best!

However, making my own clothing doesn't let me off the hook when it comes to revolutionizing the garment industry.

I do still buy some things off the rack.  Socks, t-shirts, and underwear especially.  Not to mention, I also use fabric made in factories.  Just because I step into the clothing production chain at a sooner point than others doesn't mean I don't play a part in it.

So, as a maker, I still have a responsibility in this cause.  Here are my personal three action steps relating to my role as a clothing maker.

What are your thoughts on this Fashion Revolution Week?  If you are a clothing maker, how can you still impact change in the clothing industry?  Do you have any sources of secondhand or ethically made fabric you especially love?

Prim Goods Beauty Products

There are few things I love more than buying items I already want and need and knowing the profits go to a good cause.  When people from Primrose Hill contacted a blogger group I'm in to see if anyone would want to review their beauty products, I jumped at the chance!

Primrose Hill is a faith-based drug and alcohol rehabilitation center here in Missouri.  It's special, though, in the fact that it's one of only a very few centers in the country where a mother can bring her young children to live with her in the center for the twelve month program.  Their resources and training are centered on healing and recovery for both a mother and her children.  The family stays in a giant house and works through issues together in a loving environment.

  
Since most of you readers are women, I was sure that you would be like me and appreciate this female-specific type of care.  In many centers, although they do wonderful things, they don't always take family and children into consideration.  This is a consideration that especially affects moms on their way to recovery, and it's wonderful to see Primrose Hill making family care possible.

Prim Goods Beauty Products also play a role in all of this!  You see, the products don't just fund the center, they are also made by women living there!  Each item has the name of the woman who made the product on the label.  Women are taught a trade that they can take with them back home, they grow their work ethic, and they learn to believe in themselves and their abilities again.  How beautiful is that?!  Their tagline is "Made Better by Our Story," and these items are a true reflection of that.

I was sent a complimentary beauty bundle that sells for $38.00 on the Prim Goods website.  It contains chapstick, liquid hand soap, a bar of soap, a body scrub, and body lotion.  I tried each of the items, and they are great!  The body scrub, soap, and chapstick are all made of easily pronounceable ingredients like natural oils and lye.  There are several scents available for each product.

My personal favorite item was the body scrub.  It's a pretty abrasive scrub, but I used it on my winter-dry legs, and it helped remove dry skin and left a coconut oil moisturizing layer that has really helped my skin stop itching and look better.  I have sensitive skin, and none of these products bothered it at all, but Prim Goods also has versions made specifically for sensitive skin, which I'm sure would be really good for those of us with a high-maintenance epidermis! 

Mother's Day is coming soon in the U.S., and spring and summer is the time for bridal showers, new babies, and all sorts of events.  Beauty products like these would make awesome gifts, and instead of funding a giant corporation, you're helping women and children get their lives back after addiction.  THAT is worth it.

- Learn more about Primrose Hill.
- Check out the other Prim Goods products on their website.
- Read some of their stories on their blog.
- Donate to this great cause!

I received free product in return for this post, but all opinions expressed are honest and my own.  For more information about my sponsorship practices, check out my policies page.

Clap for That Wrap: "The Wrap Life" Yendi Wrap Review

I've been loving our discussions about head wraps and learning about others' styles, and today I'm sharing with you guys a wrap-leap I've taken for my own style: I bought my first West African style head wrap!

I found out about The Wrap Life shop through some vintage friends, and it came highly recommended.  After freaking out over the gorgeousness of their IG feed and website for an embarrassingly long time, I decided it would be worth the money to try out one of their beautiful wraps.

Their store is stocked with African style head wraps from the western and southern parts of the continent along with more "culturally neutral" styles in ikat, floral, and even light denim fabrics.  There are SO many pretty options!  I was also delighted to find out that their prices are affordable, ranging from $22-$34. (Here's a sampling of their wares:)

I ended up buying the Yendi wrap, and it shipped quickly from their store in New York.  When it arrived and I opened it... SWOON, the packaging made me melt!  Exquisite photos and encouraging messaging that, needless to say, is not the type of packaging you immediately throw away.  These suckers are hanging in my sewing room because they are just too darn pretty!

I'll be honest with you guys, I've never bought an African head wrap because I personally felt weird about it.  I knew that giant head wraps are things specific to certain tribal groups, such as the gele in Nigeria, and I didn't feel comfortable sporting an item from a culture I really don't have a connection to.  I lived on the opposite side of Africa, and though they get lumped together a lot... the cultures across the continent are really quite different from each other.  Where I lived, head wraps were worn in an Islamic context and looked nothing like these.

However, the more I've learned about these styles of wraps, the more I've been able to distinguish between tribal-specific styles and prints and wraps that are more "generic" and worn by many African peoples.  I took the leap with this more generic print.

It took me many video tutorial views and much wrapping practice to even get to this point, ha!  Like I said, most of my experience with head wrapping stems from either vintage or more Islamic styles, neither of which use long, stiff, rectangular scarves like these.  Also, Islamic styles tend to utilize straight pins more often to achieve pretty tucks, folds, and shapes, while these more West African style wraps achieve a secure fit through tucking and sometimes knots.  Major learning curve!

I finally managed this wrap, though I'll admit... I still needed to use a couple straight pins to get it to stay and lay right.  I'll be practicing....

For me, when it comes to styling an African wrap, I will probably not wear an African wrap with an African garment at the same time, even if it's one I've made.  It's not a decision that I make on moral grounds or anything; it's just my personal stance (barring, of course, cultural occasions like weddings where full garb may be appropriate).  While I have ties to Africa and lived there (albeit in East Africa) for a couple years, the combination of both an African head wrap and an African garment feels too African for me.  While my life experience has twinges of Africa, I am not ethnically African, nor did I grow up there.  I want my style to reflect who I am, and putting on too much Africa all at once feels contrived and inauthentic to me.  Who I am has twinges of Africa, so my wardrobe does, too.  

Thus, I paired the wrap with a 1930s/40s dress and 1940s heels, bakelite, blue eyeliner (also a first!) and a necklace from my part of Africa.  It's Nubian, and in Nubian art triangles represent your heritage and the past. This necklace says that I am proud of where I've been and the people who have made me who I am.

It's a little African, it's a little vintage, and it's all me.

Have any of you bought a wrap from The Wrap Life?  What's your favorite wrap in their store right now?

Related Posts:

Who Can Clap for that Wrap?

Controversial Post: Cultural Appropriation

Interview with Mary, Nigerian-Canadian-American TCK

This post is not affiliated with The Wrap Life in any way and is not a sponsored post.  All opinions expressed are honest and my own.

Match-Lacking Novelty Print

Oh, novelty prints.  They are the crowning jewel of vintage in many's opinion, and I am also a fan.  However, novelty prints throw off my wardrobing plans.

I have this underlying plan of curating my wardrobe over time to be certain colors, styles, and looks that can all mix and match.  However... this novelty print will be the odd man out in the closet.  I bought this fabric because of the Middle Eastern type print of turbaned men on horseback hunting deer, and it's just too good!  However, the colors are what have thrown me off as far as styling goes.  I wondered for a long time what to make out of the fabric, and I finally settled on a gathered skirt because it's simple to make and wear and easy to mix with other pieces.

HOWEVER, the ease of mixing really only applies if you have anything else in your wardrobe that is any one of the colors in the print.  This print has purple, kelly green, sky blue, chartreuse, and pink... all colors I have exactly none of in my wardrobe.

Seriously.  I tried to accessorize, tried to find a hat, tried to find shoes... and all I had was these blue earrings.  So..... in comes the neutral top, shoes, and belt!  I'm going to chalk it up to a fashion choice of letting the skirt be the "focal point" of the outfit.  Yes, that's it.  It's not an orphan garment... It's a focal point...

Anyone else have orphan garments that match nothing else in your wardrobe?  Do you get rid of them or find a way to make them work?

Clap for That Wrap: Interview with Verily Merrily Mary

Yay, it's Clap for That Wrap Wednesday!  As I continue to do this series on Wednesdays, I hope to highlight more wrap wearers and to explore their cultural and fashionable wrap styles.  I will be interviewing women from all different countries and cultures, and today I'm starting with Mary of Verily Merrily Mary, a Nigerian-Canadian-American Third Culture Kid that really rocks her wraps!  (And all the pictures are from her IG feed!)

Which countries have you lived in, and which country (or countries) does your family tree hail from?

I have lived in Nigeria, Canada, and the United States but my family’s roots are in Nigeria. 

How often do you wear head wraps?

It depends on the hairstyle. When I am wearing my afro out or a short braided style, I wear them more often (2 times or more per week). I think I do this because it sits on my head more easily. But my hair is currently in long, thick twists so I haven’t worn a head wrap in months. 

What significance do head wraps have to you? Do you wear them for utilitarian reasons and/or cultural reasons?

Oh, it’s both utilitarian and cultural for me. When you spend so much of your childhood ashamed of your African identity due to being picked on about it, it empowering to sport your African fabrics as an adult who is extremely proud of her heritage. I am more drawn to neutral tones in clothing but a vibrant headscarf can be a wonderful icing on the cake on a more “quiet” outfit. Headscarves and head wraps are also cleverly beautiful ways to hide my bath hair days.

What makes a head wrap particularly Nigerian/African/West African?

(ex: Is it the print, the wrapping style itself, fabric, a matching outfit, etc.?) 

The fabric used and the way it is worn can play into whether or not a head wrap style is authentically African. Sub-saharan African print is quite distinct to me. There are some widely known prints like Kente cloth from Ghana and Ankara from Nigeria. Both are known for their vibrancy in color. The Kente cloth alternates between two types of fabric per row, often using yellow and other bright colors and patterns. Ankara is a bit harder to explain because there are nearly countless variations of the print. But the feel of them are the same: colorful yet not overbearing.

There is one head wrap common in Nigeria called a Gele. It is worn by women only during special occasions like weddings and other major celebrations and ceremonies. The fabric used for the Gele is usually ornate and quite firm, allowing the wearer to pin and manipulate the fabric to her liking. It is so gorgeous and it kind of reminds me of a rose.

Are there any ways that non-Africans/Nigerians/West Africans can take inspiration from your culture’s head wrap styles without stealing them?  

One thing Westerners and Western culture can do is stop acting like they found a novel fashion piece whenever they are rocking African items, head wrap or otherwise. It happens so often and is so offensive. Arbitrary “tribal print” headscarves and clothing sold in stores like Forever 21 sometimes have them with patterns that are African and, of course, Africa is not given the due credit when it is advertised. It’s just a cool “new” trend. Knowing the history of the continent and how it has been (and continues to be) pillaged and colonized, the very least they can do is acknowledge and respect the origin of those fabrics and buy from African designers. At the end of the day, people are going to do what they want to do, but I would prefer that non-African people wear African fabrics for reasons other than “it looks cool.” That will challenge people to actually research the history of what they are wearing, perhaps even to the point that they would rather not wear it out of respect. When in doubt, my advice is to wear the fabric if you’re invited by someone in the culture to do so (wedding, etc.). 

Have you learned something new in this interview with Mary?  Does her insight change or affect your own personal wrap style?

If you would like to share your wrap style in the Clap for That Wrap series, just shoot me an email!  I'd love to hear from you!

Where to Shop for Authentic African Style

pic source: @thewraplife

After our many conversations about cultural appropriation, head wraps, and fashion from other cultures, I figured it was about time to move from theoretical discussion to practical application... via shopping!

Many of us can say that we appreciate the beauty found in African fashion, and some of you may even want to add some of it to your wardrobe.  However... it can be tricky to do.  In the West there aren't many chain stores that feature authentic African styles, and they can be hard to find.  It is far easier to find "tribal" and "ethnic" prints that knock off African trends... but the stores that sell them don't give credit or profit to the communities they originate from.  That's just not right!

So where can you shop if you want to support African and minority designers and creators?! Well, I've rounded up 9 authentic shops from around the world that have lots of beautiful options!

I also know many of you non-Africans may still have a bit of nervousness around wearing African items, and that's okay.  I asked the shop owners a question many of you have probably wondered about:

Are you really okay with non-African or non-black people wearing your designs?

Unless they featured non-African or non-black people in their social media, website, or talked about this issue on their website, I went out of my way to ask this directly.  Overwhelmingly, each designer and shop owner responded with honesty and is proud to share their heritage and creativity with non-Africans, as long as it is done in a respectful way.  I hope this helps ease the anxiety some of you may have!

Yetunde Sarumi   -    @yetundesarumi (IG)
ships from: Pennsylvania, USA

Yetunde Sarumi is the designer behind this fantastic shop.  This designer pulls from her Nigerian heritage to create gorgeous pieces that combine African aesthetics with classic lines.  You'll find lots of beautiful, tailored silhouettes that would work wonderfully in a vintage wardrobe!   A percentage of the profits also goes to promote the STEM fields of study among African girls who are underrepresented in these professions. Also, the company is working to start a sewing entrepreneurial program in an effort to end the practice of FGM and economically empower African women.

Nawe Kenya  -  @nawekenya (IG)
ships from: Mombasa, Kenya

This Etsy shop is full of incredible jewelry and bags made in Kenya by local artisans.  The shop allows buyers from all over the world to enjoy gorgeous Kenyan pieces while providing fair wages and opportunities for local craftspeople.  I wear a LOT of Kenyan accessories, and if you've ever wanted some beaded goodness for yourself, this is the shop to get it from!

The Wrap Life   -   @thewraplife

ships from: New York, USA

This head wrap shop has quickly become one of my new favorites!  I was lured in by their gorgeous IG feed, and I've even bought one of their wraps for myself!  Their shop includes wraps made of West African fabrics, along with other textiles such as ikat, denim, floral, and solid colors.  The shop also carries jewelry and other items.

Diaspora Neckwear   -   @diasporaneckwear (IG)

ships from: USA

I just discovered this Etsy shop, and it was one of those moments where I thought to myself, "This is PERFECT to feature on the blog!"  It's a shop specializing in neckwear, specifically bow ties and jabots!  Jabots were popular in the earlier half of the 20th century, and they would fit perfectly into a vintage wardrobe.  The shop owner, Alua, has both African print and more culturally "neutral" options available to suit your look.  Each jabot is a no-sew accessory you can tie on and go!

Chocolate Sisters Couture   -   @chocolatesisters_nl  (IG)
ships from: Holland

Chocolate Sisters is run by Jorna, a woman born in the Netherlands and raised between both there and Gambia as a child.  She has married a Gambian musician, and now her shop shares beautiful West African style with customers.  The shop includes fashion, custom couture, and jewelry.  25% of each jewelry purchase goes to fight malaria through education and prevention materials.  The owner's mother died of malaria a few years ago, and now she uses her shop to make a difference in Gambia.

House of uBuhle Collection   -    @houseofubuhlecollection (IG)
ships from: Georgia, USA

This shop is fantastic!  The designer combines both vintage silhouettes and modern African prints for looks that would work seamlessly into a vintage-intercultural wardrobe.  The Etsy shop includes head wraps, jewelry, and clothing that is impeccably designed.  Not to mention... check out the print on the wrap below! 

Rahyma

ships from: Toronto, Canada

Oh, this shop and its fabulousness!  The designer, Rahyma, is queen of amazing maxi skirts!  They remind me of 1940s maxi skirts that were often worn on vacations, and they would be a great addition to a vintage wardrobe.  There are also a variety of other styles such as dresses, harem pants, and jackets, all of them in vibrantly colored African textiles.

Boutique Mix

ships from: Washington, D.C., USA

This shop has a HUGE selection of items ranging from clothing to cuff links and accessories.  My favorite item is the long pencil skirt below, and there are items to coordinate with anything in your wardrobe!  If you're new to incorporating African trends with your vintage style, try switching out some of your bakelite for their chunky African fabric-wrapped bracelets for an intercultural twist on your vintage look.

Ngiri-Giri:  @ngirigiri_bags (IG)
ships from: Mombasa, Kenya

This shop is run by Suzanna, a native to Mombasa (which is one of THE most beautiful beach areas in the world, may I add!).  The shop is a beautiful mix of fashion and empowerment, as the shop of 100 people includes people of varying abilities.  These artisans use local materials and craftsmanship to overcome physical disabilities and boundaries, becoming fully integrated members of their communities. (Currently orders can be placed via email, but they're working on an online shop that will hopefully be up soon!)

Is there an item from any of these shops that especially calls to you?  Have you bought anything from one of these stores or another African shop you would like to recommend?

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Intercultural Vintage Posts