How to Make a Vintage Pleated Skirt Without a Pattern

Flashback Summer: How to Make a Vintage Pleated Skirt without a Pattern

You saw my outfit a couple days ago debuting a pleated Christmas skirt.  You know what's awesome about this type of skirt?  It's super easy to make... without a pattern!  I've outlined my steps in making this skirt, and if you have any other questions, need clarification, or would like some additional photos of a step, just let me know.  I'm glad to help!  Vintage skirts for everyone!

You'll need 2-3 yards of fabric (depending on how full you want it and your waist circumference), a zipper at least 7" long, interfacing for the waistband, hooks and eyes, and coordinating thread.



Flashback Summer: How to Make a Vintage Pleated Skirt without a Pattern

Here's how I did it:

1. I made a waistband.

This waistband is my waist circumference + 2" (1/2" seam allowance on each end and a 1" underlap).  I wanted a thicker waistband than my Egyptian skirt, so the waistband rectangle is 5" wide.  (This is a 2" wide band that is folded in half with 1/2" seam allowances on each edge.)  I also added a layer of fusible interfacing on the back to strengthen the piece and ironed up 1/2" of the edge that will be inside the skirt to make it easier to sew down later.

Flashback Summer: How to Make a Vintage Pleated Skirt without a Pattern

2. I sewed up the side seam of the skirt fabric and made a giant fabric tube.
Sew up the side seam of the skirt to within at least 5-6" from the top where the waistband will go.  Insert a zipper. 


Flashback Summer: How to Make a Vintage Pleated Skirt without a Pattern

3. I marked the waistband in fourths.
I marked the center front, center back, side, and zipper placement on the waistband. (Remember to ignore the 1" underlap at this part, since the skirt fabric won't extend that far on the waistband.)  I just marked them with pins.

4. I marked the skirt fabric in fourths.

This is the same as the waistband: front center, back center, side, and zipper side.


Flashback Summer: How to Make a Vintage Pleated Skirt without a Pattern

5. I pleated the skirt fabric to fit the waistband.
I lined up the fourth markings on skirt and waistband and then sort of eyeballed my way through adding pleats to each skirt section until it fit the waistband.  I'm 100% sure there's a more exact way to do this, but I can't be bothered with maths in sewing if there's any way around it.
In the picture below, you can see the center front of the skirt and the direction of the pleats on either side.  I pleated my skirt to have the zipper in the back, but you can do it on the side if you'd like. I put my "center front" pleats on the exact opposite side of the zipper.  If you want the zipper on the side, then put the center front pleats 1/4 of the way to the side of the zipper.  If you just lay out the skirt and waistband and visualize it, this makes a lot more sense!


Flashback Summer: How to Make a Vintage Pleated Skirt without a Pattern

6. I sewed the waistband to the skirt with a 1/2" seam.
First, sew the end of the waistband that will be on top, then flip it right side out. Then sew the skirt fabric to the bottom of the waistband front. Then put the underlap bit right sides together and sew, then flip right side out again. 

7.  Do all the hand sewing.
I like to do all the machining first then finish out the skirt with my hand sewing while watching a movie.  Finish sewing the waistband back to the inside of the skirt with a whip stitch, remembering to close the hole left at the bottom of the underlap. Sew on your closures of choice to the waistband. I find hooks and eyes to be most secure. Next, blind hem the skirt. 

Flashback Summer: How to Make a Vintage Pleated Skirt without a Pattern

8. Give it a good press, and it's ready to wear! 



Flashback Summer: How to Make a Vintage Pleated Skirt without a Pattern

Outfit details
skirt: handmade by me (out of this fabric  that is currently 50% off!)
More details and photos can be found in this previous post.

Do you have any tips on making skirts like this?  Any pleating advice?! 


*This post includes affiliate links. See my policy page for more info.

17 comments

  1. That fabric is beautiful-glad you showed the details, love the sparkles. I made my daughter a pleated skirt in ankara using the same method--so much easier than using a pattern.

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    1. It really is! This one isn't perfect, but I'm okay with the flaws, considering I just had to eyeball everything!

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  2. Will have to give this a try. The skirt style looks so good on you

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  3. I love it! And you picked a great fabric.

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  5. Lovely! That fabric is the best, wintery without being in your face Christmassy. Mind you I love a bit of in your face Christmassy also!
    Thanks!
    Rowena x

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    1. Haha, yes indeed, both of them have their place!

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  6. Who knew that adding a zipper would be this easy. I only sew by hand and have always had a hard time adding a zipper when making a skirt. I've made my skirts with by adding rubber to the waist. And adding a belt to cover the waist band.

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    1. Hand sewing a zipper isn't hard either! Here's a tutorial I used to learn: http://sewaholic.net/a-hand-picked-zipper-progress-on-the-picnic-dress/

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  7. Absolutely beautiful skirt! I adore the shimmering, elegant silver threads running throughout it. What a perfect choice for a Christmas season garment.

    ♥ Jessica

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  8. What a smashing job you've done. I'm a bit scared of zips, and of creating any garment from scratch, but I would love to try it. I have a stash of old fabric that I could try this out on and it won't matter if it goes wrong as it wouldn't be an expensive waste! I second the comments about the fabric being lovely as it is wintry but not overly festive - so wearable after Christmas too! x

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    1. That's a great idea! If you run into any trouble, I'd be glad to help!

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  9. hello,would you recommend this for dancing? My school is doing a 50s theme and i cant find any skirts instore. Thank you!!! btw i love your skirt

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    1. Yep, this would work well! It's not going to have the same kind of twirl factor as a circle skirt, but you'll have plenty of room to move in comfort!

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  10. I've just stumbled upon your blog and honestly, I am obsessed! I'm just curious to know - would this be 40s appropriate? It looks like it would be, but I only have rudimentary knowledge on these things!

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