My First Chemise

Flashback Summer: Fashions of the Gilded Age Natural Form Chemise Pattern

The historical sewing has begun, officially!  I even have my first finished project to share with all of you!
I've decided to work on a Natural Form era ball gown, a dress from the late 1870s to early 1880s.  My strategy is to work from closest to the skin out, and that means my first project is Victorian underwear.  How scandalous!  Doesn't it look scandalous?

Flashback Summer: Fashions of the Gilded Age Natural Form Chemise Pattern

This piece is a chemise, and I drafted it from the Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol. 1 book, page 88.  It's a really simple thing to draft, thankfully, because this was my first time using the ruler method outlined in the book.  After forgetting to add seam allowances TWICE, I finally got it right and sewed up the chemise!

As far as this pattern goes, it all seems good to me except the armscye.  It was quite small, and I cut about 1.5 inches further down the bottom of the armhole to have more room.  Everything else seems alright to my slightly-trained historical eye.  (Although, I don't think I attached the trim around the neckline like I should have. It should be more on the chemise fabric instead of above it, but I don't have the heart to tear it out and re-do it at the moment. I don't know about the sleeve trim either… doesn't look quite right. I need to get better trims.)

Flashback Summer: Fashions of the Gilded Age Natural Form Chemise Pattern

This is an easy one-day project, but I'm proud!  It's a real historical garment!  I've begun the journey!  I'll get better as I go along, and even now I can see my French seams are awfully fat and the trim isn't done quite right.  But that's what's nice about starting with a chemise… Nobody will see it under the dress!  It's all good!

Flashback Summer: Fashions of the Gilded Age Natural Form Chemise Pattern

Also, I'm pleasantly surprised at how pretty it feels to wear.  I thought I'd feel like I was wearing a giant sack, but with the slightly off-the-shoulder fit that will be required with a ball gown, it feels quite pretty!  I think it's the lace and ribbon; feels very feminine and awesome, despite the tent shape of everything else.  Obviously, with a corset over it, it should be even lovelier!



Here is a summary of the pattern details and things I changed:
Fabric: 100% cotton
Pattern: Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol. 1, pg. 88 Chemise
Year: 1870s-80s
Notions: ribbon and trim
How historically accurate is it? I think it's pretty close!  The trim isn't quite right, but I think it's a good first try. 
Any tricky parts to the pattern?  The combination of French seams and side gussets was a little difficult to wrap my mind around, but I think I got it!
Did you change anything?  Yes, I lowered the armscyes about 1.5" on each side to make them bigger.
Time to complete: A day
First worn: August 31, 2015
Total cost: $8 fabric + $2 ribbon + $3 trim + cost of book (spread over several projects, though!) = let's say about $15
Notes: Easy to draft and adjust the size.  It's basically a rectangle with ribbon at the top!

19 comments

  1. This is a really good start. It looks like the sort of pattern that could also make a nice summer nightgown

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  2. Beautiful! I wish these would come back into fashion, they are so elegant and look very comfortable. I'm not a fan of how "sexy" modern sleepwear is and all of the satin fabrics it comes in.

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  3. What a great idea to work inside out, that way when you get to doing the outer layer you've got a lot of practice in!

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  4. So cute! I want to try! (Also, oh, so scandalous. :P )

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  5. You are off to a great start! Hooray!! And yes, when it comes to historical clothing starting from the inside/most under layer out makes the most sense. No matter what era a historical gown will not fit or look right without the correct underpinnings. And you know what's great about the chemise? You can wear it as a nightgown to sleep in! :)
    Before you start making your corset check out the free articles on the page Foundations Revealed. http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/ there is an article about drafting your own corset with fitting tips.
    -Emily

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    1. Something else I just thought of. When I made my first chemise and corset, years ago, I found that the chemise seemed really bulky underneath the corset. I altered the chemise so that the bust/waist was only a few inches bigger then my actual measurements and that helped reduce the bulk. I didn't use a historical pattern which I think was the biggest part of my problem, plus it was made using an old sheet not the beautiful lightweight cotton you see in originals, but thought I would mention it. :) It was certainly a learning project!
      I have two original chemises with some lovely details. I think I might pull those out to use for my next Behind the Seams post!

      Are you going to make split drawers next? They take a little getting use to but are super comfy and oh so practical! (Especially when attending events in historical clothing and the only bathrooms are little blue houses :P )
      -Emily

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    2. Oooo, that's really good advice! I tried to find the lightest weight cotton my Joann store had, but I'm still afraid it will be too bulky. I'll try it and reduce it if I need to.
      I AM going to make the split drawers next! Speaking of sexy…. I keep having to explain to people what I'm sewing, and it's always a funny conversation. "I'm making Victorian underwear, and next up is a nice pair of split drawers. Don't ask."

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    3. Bawahahah! Yes, explaining historical clothing, particularly underwear, to people is always interesting. :)

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  6. Yay! Under things are a great place to start. And you can never have too many of them so they are always great little projects.

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  7. Gorgeous!! I love it! My chemise isn't half this fancy!! :) Congratulations on your excursion into historical sewing! It is so much fun.

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  8. Wow! How beautiful. Good job. :)

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  9. Looks amazing! Well done!
    I totally love historical undies. I may possibly wear them as nighties sometimes. Just 'cause ;) Not often enough, though!

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  10. What fun to follow your start to the journey! The chemise is lovely:) I'm taking the historical plunge, too, but have the hardest time figuring out what era to go for.... I am leaning against the natural form to late bustle era, but frankly, as soon as an image from some other time period shows up, I've changed my mind twice or more. I guess underwear from 1870-90 didn't differ THAT much, so I'll be safe with some Victorian chemise/drawer combo:) The real nail-biting starts when it's time to tackle the corset!

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    1. That's true! The corset is scaring me a little bit, too. I've done LOTS of research though, so that should help!

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  11. It is really interesting to follow your historical costume journey. This chemise looks like a great start to me.

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  12. I think it's great that you are starting from the inside out. Having the proper foundations really makes a difference on how stuff fits. Even if your corset doesn't reduce your waist, it totally changes how the clothes look. It also makes a difference in how you carry yourself. (fyi: shoes and stockings on before your corset).

    As to the armscye being too tight, if memory serves, they are supposed to be tighter than on modern garments.We used to do Dickens' Fair (and they had us use 1850-60s styles) I remember making a ball gown for one of my girls when she was a teen. She wanted me to use a period pattern, then she was upset because she couldn't lift her arms like she wanted to (I cheated and added lycra gussets because she was also doing some bits on stage and needed to make big gestures).
    regards,
    Theresa

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  13. You might find this website helpful.http://www.thesewingacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/2010Fit.pdf Lots of great stuff for 1850s-60s costuming. If I read the fitting portion correctly, the armscye opening is only an inch wider than your measurement.

    regards,
    Theresa

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  14. Absolutely lovely! The garnet hued ribbon is such a sweet, eye-catching touch.

    ♥ Jessica

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  15. Looks like you are off to a very good start Emileigh! I can't wait to see how the rest of your project pans out.

    Blessings,

    Brigid
    the Middle Sister and Singer

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