Make Do and Mend Gray Suit Project: the Dress

Flashback Summer - Make Do and Mend Gray Suit Project: the Dress - 1930s

Okay, this has been the project from heck.

Hence the blog silence.

As I said on my IG account earlier this week, I've had some big life stuff to prepare for, and this project has been… difficult, so I just now have the chance to post.  And despite my grand plans for a fantastic photo shoot… It has been raining for days.  I just can't catch a break!  Anyway, I've done my best with what I've got and I hope you enjoy it!

You guys read about how my 1930s fabric shrank when I dyed it.  Well, it did shrink, but not nearly as much as I thought!  After hanging on the line to dry outside and some steamy ironing, the pieces were very close to their original size.  In the end, they only ended up shrinking an inch or two in length on a couple of the pieces.  (The picture below is the bodice pieces on top of the pre-dye tracings I had made.)

Flashback Summer - Make Do and Mend Gray Suit Project: the Dress - 1930s

While that was fantastic to find out, I did still have some other issues.  I couldn't just sew it all back together as before.

The skirt seams were very fragile, and I was afraid that putting strain on them at all would tear them out.  They had been like that to begin with, but when I took the garment apart I was able to see the extent of the damage.  I needed to be able to increase the seam allowance and sew on a sturdier bit of the fabric instead of the 1/2" allowance, but that meant losing the tiny bit of ease I had, making it unwearable for me.

So… I got some creativity going.  First, I tried adding some of my contrast fabric at each of the side seams and sewing the skirt back to the bodice.

It was hideous.  A 1930s sack.  With random green bits. And it was too short-waisted, even for a short gal like me!  An alternative solution had to be found.

I researched how 1930s garments tended to arrange color blocks on a garment (by looking at Pinterest and one of my 1938 Mary Brooks Picken books), and I came up with a plan. I knew that they would add fabrics to too-small pieces (because my 1938 book recommended it, as you can read below), so that's what I did.  I added length with the green fabric at the bodice, then increased the hips by adding a gathered panel in the middle of the skirt.  I also added a bit more shaping to the waist on the gray piecesto prevent the sack look and make the top more bloused.  I still had to leave the waist large enough to put on over my head without side closures.  The original garment had that and I'd like to keep that element if I could.

Flashback Summer - Make Do and Mend Gray Suit Project: the Dress - 1930s

Flashback Summer - Make Do and Mend Gray Suit Project: the Dress - 1930s

And while I will wait until the next post to share about the jacket, this is what I got on the dress!


I won't lie, I like it better than before.  The solids are still easy to mix and match with accessories, but I get to incorporate a color I don't have much of in my wardrobe.  It's a period accurate way to increase the size of an old garment, either for a bigger person or to refresh its look.  A near disaster has become a win!

To read more refinishing tips from the 1938 Mary Brooks Picken book, click here.

Supplies
Green fabric: new rayon crepe


P.S.  I got my hair cut!  I am still working on my pin curling skills with such short hair, but here it is with THIRD DAY curls!  How great is that?!  I hope to exhibit a better first day set soon.

Flashback Summer - Make Do and Mend Gray Suit Project: the Dress - 1930s

Flashback Summer - Make Do and Mend Gray Suit Project: the Dress - 1930s

24 comments

  1. Wow, It looks great- I love the bows! Well done on the re-fashion, you have actually inspired me to tackle re-working a 40s dressing gown I've been meaning to work on for years with your Make do and Mend project. Looking forward to seeing the Jacket :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Fantastic result! I'm so glad it worked out!

    ReplyDelete
  3. The dress looks fantastic. Love the hair cut too, must get mine done sometime :)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Truly fantastic transformation. This new dress looks gorgeous on you and is such an elegant piece. Awesome work, sweet gal!

    ♥ Jessica

    ReplyDelete
  5. I'm just in awe of this work - what you've managed to achieve at the end blows my mind! Such craft! The new dress is so gorgeous and suits you beautifully. Must feel like all that effort was worth it now!

    ReplyDelete
  6. The dress looks great as does the new hair do. Love it. x

    ReplyDelete
  7. I really love how this turned out, Emileigh! And your new haircut is really adorable!

    ReplyDelete
  8. The dress turned out delightful Emileigh! Way to go with rescuing the dress! And, by the way, your hair looks fantastic!

    Blessings,

    Brigid
    the Middle Sister and Singer

    ReplyDelete
  9. The dress looks great. You are pretty talented! I like your haircut. Short hair suits you well.

    ReplyDelete
  10. This turned out great! I love the shade of green you chose to pair with the original pieces. I can't wait to see the jacket too :)

    ReplyDelete
  11. Looks lovely! Also, your new haircut is fabulous -- any chance of some hair styling tutorials for us girls with short hair?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Amanda! And yes, I will try to do some hair styling tutorials when I figure out WHAT THE HECK I'M DOING. These days it's a little hit and miss making the curls go the right way, so when I figure out my go-to set I'll share it!

      Delete
  12. Love your hair! I'm seeing everyone with these cute cuts and would like to chop mine off. Especially since I'm a low maintence girl and you're on DAY 3!!! and it still looks great!
    You've done such a beautiful job with this dress. So many people would have looked at it and thought not worth the trouble but you have brought new life back into it! Well done!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Had I not started a blog series on it, I may have given up. But blog accountability is strong and drove me to finish it!

      Delete
  13. This is truly amazing! An excellent job.

    ReplyDelete
  14. This is such an amazingly fun re-fashion! I love the color-blocking- it looks like it's straight out of a 30s or 40s article. :-) I'm so impressed that you were able to stick with it through so much agony- I am currently in the Vale of Suffering with a dress and you've given me hope to see it through. ;-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I wish you luck, most sincerely. I don't know if I would have stuck with it if I hadn't already started a blog series on it, honestly. But blog accountability is great and it made me see the project through!

      Delete
  15. I love what you've done with this. It's so stylish and art deco. Really been enjoying following this series; you inspired me to haul all of my half finished and refashioning projects down from my Mum's house, and I've been slowly working through them

    ReplyDelete
  16. Wow, this is really, super, duper cute! I love the contrasting colors. And your hair is seriously amazing. Why is everyone blessed with the ability to do pincurls but my hair comes out frizzed and crazy every time??? What is your secret, all you vintage gals???

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ha, frizzed and crazy is actually not a bad thing. Mine is frizzed and crazy too, but you have to keep brushing! Then you can get past the crazy stage and into the nice waves stage.

      Delete
  17. Really great job in rescuing the dress Emileigh! I've had a few sewing disasters recently that have well and truly taken the wind out of my sails, so I'm finding it hard to keep going. Good job in making it through! I do love those little bows and the re-dyed fabric looks so great. :) ❤

    xox,
    bonita of Lavender & Twill

    ReplyDelete
  18. Emileigh, when this post appeared on my Bloglovin feed on the mobile, it cropped your main image to not include your face, and I genuinely thought the image on the right was your inspiration one! Your research efforts really show through here, because that colour blocking is just so spot on 30s that I was totally fooled! I love it, *and* I love that you showed us the "disaster" in the process as well as the successful end product!

    ReplyDelete
  19. You're so talented! You make me want to be a less lazy seamstress.

    ReplyDelete